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The Quarry
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Piece of the Action 
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Rodeo, The 
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Waffle, The 

The Rodeo 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 12-4-10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,121
Submitted By: Monty on Dec 5, 2010
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At the steep crux on the FA.
Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Shoot-Dang-Man, put on your favorite belt buckle and hold on tight, this here be a bucker! This pitch will test your technique, and then fry your power at the top. Excellent rock with great climbing, make this thing a true classic. Yee-haw!

Begin with jugs up to a bulge. Balance and finesse your way over the bulge and up steep, thin slab. As the route gets steeper, the holds get better, but further apart. The crux comes at the steepest part of the black streak involving big moves with smeary feet. Everything up to this point is very sustained. A few more hard moves deposit you at a rest before fun 5.10 climbing to the anchor.


Location 

Climbs the black streak located in between the Slippery Nipple and Not Even on the right side of the Quarry Wall.


Protection 

One hand-sized cam and 9 bolts + anchor.
All bolts were drilled on lead.



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By Pinklebear
Dec 5, 2010

Nice one, Dave! I remember looking at that black streak in June, wondering why there wasn't a route there yet. Good eye!

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Dec 5, 2010

Thanks, Matt.

If you're a fan of technical climbing, this route is not to be missed!

By Pinklebear
Dec 5, 2010

Psyched, can't wait to try it: Nice work to both of you! Behind every great ascent is an even greater belayer.

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Dec 6, 2010

Great job, Dave,
We played on this last year and looked forward to coming back for the lead. Glad you beat us to it! Kinda.

The middle section was pretty techy, musta been an exciting lead drilling it up.

Congrats!

By mike sheridan
From: Golden
Dec 8, 2010

Dave,
This route is super streamline. One of my favorites at the ridge.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Dec 11, 2010

Nice work, stud!

By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 20, 2011

Top notch addition to The Ridge.