|E Crags (DBC Canyon)
The Road to Mecca
|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]|
|FA: ||John Glime, Paul Ross (Alt Leads) Sept 29, 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||2,843|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Oct 1, 2007|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
The climb was named The Road to Mecca as the route is very holy!. Starts about the same level as the start to Death by Chocolate but at the bottom of the slot canyon at the top pool.Those parties that have enjoyed the climb "1000'of Fun" will find this easy mountaineering type climb has a similar atmosphere and great views from its summit.
(P1.Follow the slanting brown dyke on the right of the pool towards the holes.Double anchors.200'5.5.
(P2. Up to the right and gain the long road of holes,follow to double anchors. 200' 5.3.
(P3. Continue the holy way to double anchors. 200'5.3.
(P4. Continue the pilgrimage to double anchors.200'5.3.Straight very holey slab, cross the big crack and up to an ledge/alcove just below the summit.200'5.0. Scramble 60' to summit and register in cairn.
Descent...It is advisable to down climb the very easy last pitch as pulling ropes down this very rough slab would be difficult. From the anchors top of pitch 4 rap the route.
One goes up the same slot canyon as for "Death by Chocolate"If the lower pools have water (sometimes about waist deep)and one has a fear of water there is an alternative via the one pitch "Aquaphobia" 5.4/5.It also brings one past the awkward little groove.If dry the canyon approach is the easiest to find.Alternative:- At the very entrance of the slot canyon on the north side scramble up the narrow bush filled gully .continue and look out for a ramp leading back left then right and down climb an easy crack for 15 feet, then continue up the terrace to find double rap anchors.100' rap back into the canyon and easy walk to the climbs: the climb back out up the rappel line,this is "Aquaphobia" 5.4/5!
Take a small rack and slings, mainly for the first pitch or when ever. Two 60m ropes.
Paul Pitch 2
John on first pitch.
Looking up pitch 3
The summit as seen from the backside of the reef. ...
Looking down pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Showing route...Climber top of P1 .
Looking across the canyon to the slim ramps of the...
John following pitch 4
Looking up the last pitch.
John topping out pitch 5
First pitch of The Road to Mecca
|Comments on The Road to Mecca
From: western, colorado
Nov 9, 2007
Paul and etc. We were excited to do this route on Monday because it looks great and is right in our grade, but we got lost and couldn't find the slot to climb up. I'm sure we saw it, but i guess i wasn't sure which one it was. Could it be possible to take/post a pic of the slot that leads to the bottom of the route? Infact, you guys/gals did such a nice job in this area, putting in all the routes would it be possible to post an over view map and comman paths to hike, so we don't beat up the area and can find all of these kickass pitches. just a thought. Ned Walker
Nov 9, 2007
Hi. It is difficult to find things as it is a big complex area. I think if you study Death By Choc and Day of Atonement you will see there is only one slot canyn that goes below this formation and of course Road to Mecca. You might find the 4th class slot approach more difficult that the Mecca route??It has a bit of a struggle up a V groove ,that is fun with a pack on your back . Everything out there both the approaches and the routes can involve a lot of adventure. We learn't the hard way it does takes time.....
From: western, colorado
Mar 11, 2008
Well we have entered that crazy time in colorado were the mud seems to be around every corner; so it sounds like we will be returning to the eastern swell this weeked, Hope the weather holds and to see you all there.Ned
|By John Peterson|
Dec 22, 2009
I've been looking around the reef trying to find a "Third Flatiron" to take beginners on and this is the closest I've seen so far. Here's why this is a great outing to introduce someone to climbing:
- The climbing is easy - mostly low 5th with just a few 5.4 spots on the first pitch. Anyone could do it with a toprope. And you wouldn't be uncomfortable being belayed by someone that doesn't have much experience.
- Decent pro for the leader.
- Could easily be climbed without rock shoes.
- The exposure isn't intimidating.
- Not too long or short - 4 pitches is a perfect length.
- No traverses or funky situations.
We did this a little differently - we started at the ledge just above the handline instead of at the pool. I don't think this changes the route much - it was easy to traverse over - but it made for a nice relaxing place to start and avoided worries about getting the rope wet in the pool.
- No seriously uncomfortable belays.
At the unroping spot, you can work right and a little down around the corner to get to the plateau behind the reef. This isn't hard and would be an easy way to get down if you have a large party or people that would be uncomfortable on the raps. It looked like an easy hike down to Little Spotted Wolf, making a nice round trip. You could probably walk back down to the start of the route but we didn't try - the only obstacle appears to be a small chockstone.
The only downside to bringing beginners is the approach through the slot canyon. I'm guessing that getting out the rope or the rappel in on the right would get beginners through.
As far as pro, all we used were camalots. Probably 1 each .5 - 3 and maybe an extra gold. There's a bolt on the first pitch at the hardest part.