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The Roach 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,178
Submitted By: Lacey LaDuke on Oct 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Curtis on the crux of The Roach (11a)


Start on the flake and follow it up until you reach the crux (4th bolt?) then traverse right to the rail and continue upwards.

Watch out for the lose hold at the 3rd bolt.


It's definitely the most obvious route down there, right on the flake, right in the middle of everything.


6 bolts to lower off.

Photos of The Roach Slideshow Add Photo
Sean making the crux on the Roach (11a) look easy.
Sean making the crux on the Roach (11a) look easy.
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By Lacey LaDuke
From: Spokane, Washington
Nov 24, 2008

Just an FYI the loose hold at the 3rd bolt finally got pulled off.

By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The traverse is at the 3rd bolt, but who's counting. I struggled to find anything loose on this route. Not sure what the fuss is about, I would imagine it has cleaned up since the FA. Bottom line: Its a great route, and defiantly don't avoid based on rumors of being loose or choss!

By Marty Bland
Aug 2, 2010

This is not a PG-13 route.

By Andrew Shoemaker
From: Garden Valley, ID
Jun 17, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Agree with Marty...def. not PG-13. Very well protected and clean falls.

By Scott Coldiron
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 23, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Please take the PG-13 off the rating. No way it belongs.