2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Easy access, southern exposure, and fun, well-bolted, if crowded, sport routes make the Riviera a popular spot on cool, sunny days. There are a few mixed bolts-plus-gear routes and a few trad routes, too. A good place to take less-experienced climbers, with some moderate (5.6 to 5.8) routes as well as some harder (5.9 to 5.11) lines. Most routes have 2-bolt anchors at the top. Bring a 60m rope; a few of the routes need it to lower.
While some might consider it a separate crag, you can continue climbing up past the top of this subarea & continue to the top of the Bihedral. In fact, some route(s) on the Bihedral lie directly above routes on the Riviera.
Park at the same place you would for Sherwood Forest (immediately after mile marker 34 on the left), and walk 150 yards west on the road until you see a 3'-tall cement post with "430" on it, just off the road / on the hillside about 30' up off the road on the north side. Hike up the trail next to this post for 5 minutes to reach the Riviera. The trail tops out near the route Le Nouveau Riche. There is another parking area on the S side of the road at a big pullout with a large tree at the end of a guardrail.
There is a funky, little Buddha in a shallow cave on the left side of this crag. What is up with that?
This is often one of the sunnier and warmer cliffs in Boulder Canyon during the cooler months. Note, near the winter solstice, the sunshine does leave the bottom of this cliff ~1 pm, which can bring a bit of a chill. Still, you can find nice warmth during the earlier hours of the shortest days.
This is the [eighth] route from the right. It is a fun line with several variations. It can be done as a 5.8 if you take the easiest line, or a 5.10 if you take the hardest line. This route is a bit of a squeeze job (stay left of the bolt line or you'll trespass on Topless Etiquette!) in between Topless Etiquette and Silver Glide. Not included in the Rossiter guide.Climb straight up a face past three bolts. Move up right and reach left to clip the fourth ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
A lot of the hangers at this crag are bent from people clipping on them wrong or the belayer standing too far back and catching falls. Maybe the hangers were low quality to start with. None of them seem really unsafe, but I don't like the looks of these.
That said, this cliff is kinda sad. A lot of routes of questionable quality are crowded in, between other routes. A few of the lines here are so close in places that it's hard to tell which line you are on and which bolt you should clip.
Beach Bum was bolted so tight to the crack on Devil's Dihedral that the bolt is "on a trad line."
I did all of the climbs at this crag this past weekend. It was enjoyable, but none of them stand out in my mind. All of the climbs left me wanting more or feeling like it wasn't enough. Best described as unsustained. Definitely worth the approach though. There are 14 climbs, bring a rack of small-med. stoppers, some RPs, and Aliens. You can do them all in a few hours with a quick partner and no crowd.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 5, 2002
For perhaps slightly better directions for AC: Drive uphill and look for the upper Bihedral area (it has an overhanging profile on the skyline) approximately 7 miles past Elephant Buttesses (1st climbing rocks in the canyon). There is a pulloff on the south side of the road just past a decent talus field that comes down nearly to the road on the north side. There is a large tree at this pulloff. This pulloff is downhill from Boulder Falls. You can look up at the Bihedral and see a big, left-facing dihedral up high on the north side of the road. Walk downhill briefly (approx 100m) to the same talus field. Hike up the talus field approximately 5 minutes. When you get to a cliff, wander east 2 minutes to the base of this rock/crag. Hopefully, that helps.
Someone has done some well-meaning but poorly thought out gear maintenance here lately. The anchor up and right of Topless Etiquette (also used for Le Nouveau Riche) has big links added, but the old links were not removed, leaving a bad situation. There are similar problems with the anchor on Bosch Blanket Bingo.
In early June, Ron Olsen, Rob Copolillo and I replaced the rappel/lower hardware on five of the seven fixed anchors on this crag. We removed all smash (lap) links and cold shuts and installed 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links plus new hangers where necessary. Also, we removed the worn smash links from the Le Nouveau Riche anchor (it already had quick links).
This work was performed as part of the American Safe Climbing Association's (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchor Campaign. They could use yoursupport!
I believe the parking are Leo refers to is the next wide area on the south side of the road after the Happy Hour Crag parking area (which is the next one after Cob Rock). If you walk back down the road 100' from here, there is a trail going up to the base of the Bihedral Area. Watch for loose rock, there is a block right on the trail hanging by a thread!
LOST RACK??? I picked up the rack someone left by Chouette and Splash today and wanted to make sure it got back into the right hands. So if it's yours, call me at 231-343-9407 and we'll get you reconnected.
Just went there today and there are two new bolted routes to the right of Splash. I was there a month ago, and they were not there. So, no longer is Splash the furthermost route to the right. The starts are a little tricky, especially if you stay to the right of the bolt on the route to the right of Splash. If I were to guess, I would say a few 5.9 moves, then gets easier on the way up.
This place is nice for a quick few climbs, or for a relaxing trip out... I agree with someone else's comments on here, though, that the rock quality's not that great... Also, I've been here twice, once mid-day on a Tuesday, and both times there were two or three other groups....
In early October, Dale Haas, Ron Olsen and I replaced the worn anchor hardware (chain, chain links, or quicklinks) with new hardware on Splash/Chouette, Le Nouveau Riche and Topless Etiquette. Thanks to the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org) for the hardware. They appreciate your support.
One note about the mentioned 430 sign: there is no way you will spot this driving by in your car unless you have eagle eyes. It is quite faded and small. It is, however, there and a good marker to tell you are starting the correct approach trail which is just east of the large talus field.
Also in the interest of toting the positive aspects of this crag:
1) Nice southern exposure for those colder days. 2) Good place for a group as all the climbs are pretty much lined up and you can easily keep track of each other if you are the leader. 3) A good variety of grades. 4) Some pretty decent easy grade sport leads for newer leaders to practice one. 5) The easy sport leads also offer the chance to place a little trad gear along the way (on the runout sections, bolts have not been placed where gear opportunities exist), so you can practice that without having to lead a whole route on gear. 6) The easier routes are actually quite long compared to a lot of Boulder Canyon sport climbs. 7) Easy approach/ nice base with lots of room to move around, drop packs, etc. 8) Ok I know I am on a roll, too much time on my hands. 9) Good place to practice your friction climbing, especially the Devil's (Devin's?) Dihedral. Awesome 5.9+ (best toproped, gear tricky, only one bolt). 10) There are almost always climbers there (I guess that could be a negative in some ways) who seem to be laughing and in general having a good time and is one of the most popular places to climb in the canyon. Why would we be there if it was so bad?
Kind of funny. It seems that some of the crags on here that get the most bashing are also the most popular.
Loaned my Gri-gri to Lewis and Sara at the Riviera in Boulder Canyon. After seeing Lewis drop quite a few feet to the deck while being lowered on an ATC, I offered the use of my Gri-gri. His number didn't save in my phone. Reaching out here with the hope I can get it back.
2 weeks ago, I was out climbing Choutte when my group was caught in a lightning storm. I left 2 locking quickdraws at the anchors and a quickdraw on the route. If you found it, could you please return it to me? My email is: firstname.lastname@example.org.
As do hundreds of cragging areas, the Riviera lies beneath hundreds of vertical feet of choss, some of which could spontaneously fall and some of which could be knocked off by climbers. Visitors should at least wear helmets. Don't assume your kids are safe just because the Riviera has beginner/moderate routes.