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The right side of Owls is home to the shear 5.10 wall, named thus because it looks to offer long pitches of face climbing at that grade. In fact routes here all turned out to be much harder than they looked, from 5.11 to hard 13. If you like difficult, technical and sustained steep face climbing, this is the wall for you. There are some open projects here that are the best of their kind in NE. Around left from the 5.10 wall's Hooters Arete 12a/b you will Find Dave Quinn's WiZe Owl 12b that follows flakes up the big steep corner, and further left, out above the upper apron, the stemfest Dragonfly Yoga 12+.
Follow the directions in the main Owl's Cliff heading to get to the Oracle Boulders. From the uphill side of these boulders, traverse the hill side east for a few hundred feet then head up. This section is a little windblown as of 10/2010, but in a few hundred more feet @ N44.04235, W071.35912 you should be able to pick out a faint climbers trail heading up to the cliff.. The base of the cliff is only about 10 minutes up hill. You will meet it at a tongue of slab @ N44.04298, W071.35908, the starting point of the routes "Well Balanced Owl" and "Zig-Zag". On your right, below the slab will be a large boulder with a flat top, a nice place for setting your stuff if climbing here.
15 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Right Cliff:
Featured Route For The Right Cliff
Wize Owl 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : ... : The 5.10 Wall
At the top of the approach gully, just around left of the main vertical face of the 5.10 Wall, is a large left facing corner, capped by a big 2 tiered roof. This route climbs the corner, making use of the flakes and horizontal seams to reach an anchor just left of the roof. Most of the climbing is 5.11, with one hard section that brings it up to 12b. It is well protected with bolts, so get on it! Stick clip the first bolt....[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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