This route is found on the middle of the rock just right of the very large boulder sitting in bottom of the obvious crack system. The 8 bolts are clearly visible all the way to the top. IF the bolts are good, (hard to tell how the integrity is in this soft sandstone), this route is well protected. The rock is very loose and crumbly and basically you could come off at any time. The trick to succeed on this route is NOT use the obvious larger holds but carefully select holds that are not flakes, not big, and whatever you do, don't pull on anything harder than you have to. And be light on your feet! Somehow, succeeding on this route is very rewarding in a strange way...
This route has 8 bolts with a two bolt anchor. All of the bolts are quite new and seem to be the 3/8 inch version. You can back up the anchors with a long sling around some small bush trunks.
Upon closer inspection, it is quite obvious there ...
Sallie hamming it up for the camera!
Naoko high stepping her way up...
Sallie getting more comfortable on the loose rock.
Brad nearing the top.
|By Brad Allender|
From: Alameda, CA
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I found this climb a little less rewarding than paul did, although it was a fun challenge to ignore every hold that looked good (case in point, the 2 really nice underclings just above me on the first picture of me taken by paul, don't touch em, they flex a half inch with the slightest pull). A note to belayers, wear a helmet and sunglasses, the debris falling off is pretty bad, and mostly small stuff and dust that winds up in you eyes with the larger piece mixed in to smack you in the head. Actually, I would probably not recommend you do this climb at all if pressed.
|By Bo Johnston|
Oct 27, 2005
I was up exploring in this area (Pine Canyon BTW) and ran into this route also. I'd never seen it before and it looks very new. When hiking into Pine Canyon it can be found when you hit a wash that crosses the stage road just abeam the large caved and nested crag (which I think we used to call Barney Rubble or Bam Bam, some Flinstone name, it's in the old Climbing Bay Area Book). This bolted route is on a western face just left of the big crag and can be reached by walking up a good trail along side Barney Rubble. (Which BTW, I found a stupid looking new bolt line on it's lower left slabby section. Look for it... I could see about 4 bolts but couldn't make out an anchor or how it finishes.) Needless to say, it sucked being up there alone and not getting to try these new routes out. Thanks for posting this new one though. Maybe we should just give it a name???
From: Vacaville Ca.
Mar 15, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Ok I admit its a choss ball. I was hoping it would clean up a bit more than it did. The buckets were too enticing to pass up. I got all obsessed with leading it. Hopefully it will clean up nicely like some of the other climbs in the canyon. Personally I don't think its that bad. Anyway, I put that route up in 04. I wanted something lower down the canyon to climb on short days. I named the route "The Right Cheek" for obvious reasons. I put the anchors at the top of the Dingleberry crack also. I lead it one day and had to anchor myself to a bush to bring up the second....not cool.
The short bolt line down the hill on the arete that was previously mentioned as "stupid looking bolt line" is the start to a route called Raptors nest. Don't be confused, its no sport route. Its actually three bolts protecting the short steep section then run out to a short crack (takes small pro) along the arete to another short run out section up to a bolt. From here you head left into the caves and chimney and build your own anchor. Climb up the chimney (wide gear) to the top of the route. A short (.10a) bolt line (Escape route)will lead you to the actual top of the rock if you wish, or you can make a short rap down the back side to the ground. I put this route up "on lead" in 04 as well. I only placed bolts where they need to be and where I could get them in. Its not dangerously run out to sabbotage following parties. Its just how it went down. Its a bit of a slippery route, lots of lichen and such. Don't climb during raptor season either. Its not called Raptors Nest for nothing. All in all, its not a bad route. It just takes a few pieces of wide gear and a couple big balls.