|Seasonal closure for bird nesting.|
A traditional climb that is unaccountably neglected. Good training for easier Vedauwoo 5.6s.
P1 110' 5.8: After an initial steep crack get established - or even stuck - in the chimney (at this point retreat slings may be in place, no doubt left by fat climbers). Struggle upwards for about 30' until it's possible to emerge [listen to the cries of "It's a boy!"] and climb the slabby left wall to a good stance.
P2 60' 5.7: Walk left and climb a much easier corner crack.
The Upper Tier at Gogarth has an easier approach than most other parts of the cliff. Scramble down a muddy gully to reach the right hand end of the Upper Tier. After passing under some steep grooves, a squat pinnacle about 100' high is reached. Both sides of this form tight chimneys - The Rift is the one on the right. Descend by scrambling upwards then traversing grass and gorse slopes back to the descent gully.
Not a lot of gear in the chimney but it would be hard to fall out of this.