Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Gogarth
Select Route:
A Dream of White Horses 
Rift, The 
Scavenger 

The Rift 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1966 - Claude Davies & Ally Cowburn
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Rob Davies UK on Oct 19, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Seasonal closure for bird nesting.

Description 

A traditional climb that is unaccountably neglected. Good training for easier Vedauwoo 5.6s.

P1 110' 5.8: After an initial steep crack get established - or even stuck - in the chimney (at this point retreat slings may be in place, no doubt left by fat climbers). Struggle upwards for about 30' until it's possible to emerge [listen to the cries of "It's a boy!"] and climb the slabby left wall to a good stance.

P2 60' 5.7: Walk left and climb a much easier corner crack.


Location 

The Upper Tier at Gogarth has an easier approach than most other parts of the cliff. Scramble down a muddy gully to reach the right hand end of the Upper Tier. After passing under some steep grooves, a squat pinnacle about 100' high is reached. Both sides of this form tight chimneys - The Rift is the one on the right. Descend by scrambling upwards then traversing grass and gorse slopes back to the descent gully.


Protection 

Not a lot of gear in the chimney but it would be hard to fall out of this.



Comments on The Rift Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -