Fun sport route with varied face and hueco climbing. There is a short approach ramp (50 feet, 3 bolts) that doesn't really count as a pitch. The first true pitch is a good warm up at 5.11-. The second pitch is the crux and is a test of technical edge skills. The third pitch wanders up and left to a thin section above an overlap (5.11). The last pitch is not to be missed. Easy 5.10 huecos and edges take you up a twisted arete 350' above the canyon.
Most of the belays are semi-hanging. Rap the route. One 60m rope is all you need.
Bolts and rap hangers.
|By Eric Godfrey|
From: slc, ut
Feb 14, 2011
Wanted to only give it three stars because some spots were pretty sandy, a foot hold or two started to crumble, there were a few hollow sounding spots, and one or two holds wiggled like they were ready to break. However, it climbs REALLY well, and that last pitch is one of the best I've done so... four stars it is. My opinion is that the crux on the third pitch is only slightly easier than the crux on the second. The books grades are Pitch 1 - 5.11a, Pitch 2 - 5.12a, Pitch 3 - 5.11c, Pitch 4 - 5.11c. MY grades are: Pitch 1 - 5.11a, Pitch 2 - 5.12a, Pitch 3 - 5.11d, Pitch 4 - 5.10c
|By steve edwards|
From: SLC, UT
Mar 24, 2011
Glad this route made it in here. I thought the third pitch was pretty bad. Super hollow in sections and, in my opinion, a lot harder than pitch two. Of course since I'm pretty sure that pitch changes it's possible a couple of years ago it was harder than it is now. But regardless of grade the crux was sandy and not so fun. It was so bad I tried to scope a weakness up the good rock on the direct line. Even if much harder--and it would be--it would improve the overall climb. The rest is great. Agreed the last pitch was by far the easiest of the route but, again, that may/probably has changed since the first ascent.