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The Monkey House
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Face Full of Bush S 
Monkey Bars S 
Monkey Business S 
Monkey Pause S 
Monkey Puzzle S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 
Monkey Shine S 
New Pollution, The S 
Psycho Hose Beast S 
Punishment For Shoplifting S 
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 
Schwing Salute S 
Soap on a Rope S 

The Reward aka Convicted Felon 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,911
Submitted By: david goldstein on Mar 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Laura in the crux of Convicted Felon.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a crimper's delight. It is also good for the reach impaired as there are a lot of tiny intermediates. This is the route just left of Punishment for Shoplifting which is much discussed in the comments for that route.

This is continuous, vertical 11- in the bottom half, then cruxy off-vertical climbing on solid rock with variously oriented, small holds from bolts 6 to 8. There are a couple of decent rests before the business. Bonus: the crux clips are pretty easy.


Location 

This is between Schwing Salute and PFS.


Protection 

8 bolts.



Photos of The Reward aka Convicted Felon Slideshow Add Photo
Ms. Kimball looking casual.
Ms. Kimball looking casual.
Finishing up nicely.
Finishing up nicely.
Comments on The Reward aka Convicted Felon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 16, 2013
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Mar 27, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

F'in fantastic! The crux is all in the foot work. This would be an impressive onsight.

By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Really great route. Now that I finally sent it I don't have to guard my opinion in order to keep attention off it.

By slim
Administrator
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Called 'Convicted Felon' in the new guidebook, I think. Really good route with varied climbing that builds up to a nice crux.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Awesome. Simply one of the best in the canyon at the grade.

By GeoffElson
May 22, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

The rebolting seems to be a bit excessive. Safer than the gym.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Huh? Did this get retrobolted, Geoff?

By GeoffElson
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

It looks like at some point it was updated, there are permanent heavy duty biners on the lowering chains. I don't know anything about the history of the route this could have been the original bolt spacing but the lower section is over protected. Twice I was able to unclip the draw below and move it up to the next bolt.

By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Nothing wrong with an overprotected parent for a climb when it comes to bolts. I was delighted to find out how crimpy and cruxy the upper section of this route is. Great line for people who love face climbing!

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 10, 2012

Fantastic route and one of the best routes I have done in Clear Creek. Who knew that Monkey House was so close to Wall of the '90s but sees very little traffic. A pumpy and gentle travere left on slopers takes you to a good rest and then 10 feet of techy/thin face climbing. This stone is perfect! Awesome! Do it....

By Elijah Flenner
Jun 8, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Bottom is harder than it looks, and the route is more sustained than it at first appears. The crux is a little tricky, but very good stances before and after that makes for a great 5.12 project.

By climberboy228
Nov 16, 2013

I got on this for the first time today while my buddy pursued and achieved the redpoint. This is a great line with varied climbing, good rests, and a delicate crux on vertical rock. I got it with two rests the first go and 1 rest on my second row. I'll come back for the redpoint soon! FYI, this routé is in the shade and wind until about 1pm.