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The Trophy Wall
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Sea of Vapors T 
Troubled Dreams (ice) T 

Troubled Dreams (ice) 

WI6

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 475', Grade V
Consensus: WI6 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 669
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Mar 5, 2012

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Kris Gorny pulling through the roof on the first p...

Description 

An excellent route in a spectacular setting! As with any ice route, conditions are widely variable from year to year, but it seems that Troubled Dreams, originally a mixed route, has been coming regularly over the past few years. Difficult to say where the crux will be. It could be pulling through the small roof on the first pitch or past the overhang at the start of pitch two. Mostly the route is just steep and continuous.

Scramble up to the base of the WI3 approach ice to a one-bolt belay, and continue to the base of the route.

Pitch 1, 60m: Climb through several vertical steps to the base of a curtain or pillar(s) pouring over a small roof. Climb over the roof and continue up steep ice to a belay on the left, under another overhang.

Pitch 2, 60m. From the belay, step right and climb vertical to slightly overhanging ice and continue up the steep headwall to a belay under a small overhang on the right.

Pitch 3, 25m. Step left from the belay and climb a steep column, that may be slightly overhanging at the top.


Location 

Troubled Dreams is in the center of The Trophy Wall. The first pitch is about 10m right of The Replicant, and it joins that route for the final two pitches. It is between The Sea of Vapours and The Terminator, the start will be obvious. Descent is from v-thread anchors.


Protection 

Screws (med to long) protect the entire route. Take extra screws for belays, which may or may not have in-situ v-threads. Be sure to bring cord to create/backup anchors. The only bolt is at the base of the approach ice.



Photos of Troubled Dreams (ice) Slideshow Add Photo
Nate Erickson coming up the 1st pitch of the Replicant. March 2012.
Nate Erickson coming up the 1st pitch of the Repli...
The Trophy Wall, early March 2012.  Troubled Dreams(iced up) is the center route.  Climbers can be seen on the first pitch. <br /> <br />First pitch ends under the obvious overhang on the left, where the route joins The Replicant.  The 2nd pitch ends under the overhang to the right of the final pillar.
BETA PHOTO: The Trophy Wall, early March 2012. Troubled Dream...
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