BETA PHOTO: Josh Olson after his second lead of The Repentance...
Dirty, dirty, dirty. The line follows the crack system about 5 feet left of "The Curse of the Drill." The crack terminates near the anchors of "Curse," as well. The crux was high off the ground, probably around 10 feet from the top with a lieback. Either that or just figuring out the gear. Definitely kept me on my toes. Did I mention it was dirty?
Crack system between "Penitent Crack" and "The Curse of the Drill." There is a pine tree around 30 or so feet up growing out of the crack. Rap off the anchors for "Curse" or top out and walk back around.
Smaller gear, nothing bigger than a number 4 Metolius TCU, I was glad I brought my hexes, and I dropped in a stopper or two also. There is a pretty decent size runout low to the ground, and a lot of the gear was finicky, to say the least.
By Josh Olson From: madison, wisconsin May 7, 2011
Me and Caleb Cerling led this route for our first time last summer. I would love to know if anyone else has lead this. Also, I like dirty little head games, so I love this route.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH May 8, 2011
I think this route has been climbed before, but I've never heard of a name for it. Repentance Crack sounds good. We briefly thought of bolting it, but as you found out, it has just enough gear placements to barely justify a gear lead. None of us climbed it. We just rappelled it to check it out.
By Josh Olson From: madison, wisconsin May 8, 2011
Sounds good Jay. Also, I'm curious about a lot of lines that aren't in this database. Did you or do you know of anybody that did a lot of gear leading in the hollow? I've found around five other lines, and I'd like to figure out the history of the area a little better.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH May 9, 2011
Hey Josh, there are a few other lines out there. I'm not sure about their quality though. I would urge against you adding those to the database until you climb on them, however. It's best to gain solid information about the routes before you add them. That way, MP can be a truly accurate resource for rock climbs.
Not nearly as dirty these days, and protects well enough. The crack is on a flake system, so I wouldn't want to take a major whipper and risk breaking the rock. First piece is high, but it's a 5.3 scramble to reach it. Convenient finish on the anchors for Curse of the Drill next to it.