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Unsorted Routes:

The Repentance Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Historic?
Page Views: 342
Submitted By: Josh Olson on May 7, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Josh Olson after his second lead of The Repentance...

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Description 

Dirty, dirty, dirty. The line follows the crack system about 5 feet left of "The Curse of the Drill." The crack terminates near the anchors of "Curse," as well. The crux was high off the ground, probably around 10 feet from the top with a lieback. Either that or just figuring out the gear. Definitely kept me on my toes. Did I mention it was dirty?


Location 

Crack system between "Penitent Crack" and "The Curse of the Drill." There is a pine tree around 30 or so feet up growing out of the crack. Rap off the anchors for "Curse" or top out and walk back around.


Protection 

Smaller gear, nothing bigger than a number 4 Metolius TCU, I was glad I brought my hexes, and I dropped in a stopper or two also. There is a pretty decent size runout low to the ground, and a lot of the gear was finicky, to say the least.



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By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
May 7, 2011

Me and Caleb Cerling led this route for our first time last summer. I would love to know if anyone else has lead this. Also, I like dirty little head games, so I love this route.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 8, 2011

I think this route has been climbed before, but I've never heard of a name for it. Repentance Crack sounds good. We briefly thought of bolting it, but as you found out, it has just enough gear placements to barely justify a gear lead. None of us climbed it. We just rappelled it to check it out.

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
May 8, 2011

Sounds good Jay. Also, I'm curious about a lot of lines that aren't in this database. Did you or do you know of anybody that did a lot of gear leading in the hollow? I've found around five other lines, and I'd like to figure out the history of the area a little better.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 9, 2011

Hey Josh, there are a few other lines out there. I'm not sure about their quality though. I would urge against you adding those to the database until you climb on them, however. It's best to gain solid information about the routes before you add them. That way, MP can be a truly accurate resource for rock climbs.