|Reed's Pinnacle Area
Climb a squeeze chimney on the right side.
Big Bros, maybe.
Jan 8, 2008
This is the climb I warm up on if I show up to climb other offwidths at Reed's. Its the best one pitch 5.7 offwidth/squeeze I've climbed in Yosemite. The quality of rock is outstanding.
Protect this climb with four pieces: yellow alien, #3.5 friend, #4 friend, and #5 friend.
You will be happy as you move on to the other climbs in the area if you start with this gem. It may be the first climb put up by Wally Reed at Reed's! ???
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Jan 25, 2011
I placed two #6 camalots on the route, but a #5 and #6 would work just the same if you don't have doubles. Any gear smaller than that is probably just going to weigh you down. Clean and fun.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Dec 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
After the first 10-15 ft of chimneying you can place a #6 BD C4, which you can slide most of the rest of the way up the route. I left a #5 BD C4 at the entry to the squeeze, removed the #6 there and replaced it above the squeeze for more pushin'. A #4 BD C4 can be nice to protect the final moves exiting the squeeze and reaching the anchor.
Bring long slings for a good extension for setting up a TR. The same anchor works well for TRing The Remnant, Left, which is also a great climb.