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 ADVANCED
Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Groove T 

The Remnant, Center 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Bachar (1986)
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 18, 2011

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Description 

The Remnant is the smaller pinnacle that sits between The Iota and Reed's Pinnacle. The center route links together a few minor features on the outer face of formation. It is a reasonably protected lead, but my guess is this thing sees little action other than the occasional toprope by a party that has climbed The Remnant-Right Side or The Remnant-Left Side.

Start just down and left of the Right Side Route, climb up and right to the top of a large detached block. Here you clip the first bolt and then make a couple moves (5.10+) getting up onto a left-trending ramp. Follow the ramp out onto the center of the face and clip another bolt. Next is the 12a crux - a relatively steep and very blank slab. This section seemed outright impossible to me, but I'm no 5.12 slab climber. Then some good holds lead up to a stance below a seam that diagonals left. One good finger lock and couple marginal sidepull crimps bring you to a final crux (probably 5.11+).

Protection 

4 bolts and some gear for the start. 2 bolt anchor/rap.


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