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The Remington Electric 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Tony Sartin and Terri Condon (June 27, 2009)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 803
Submitted By: terri condon on Mar 11, 2011
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This climb is rich with variety. The first 4 bolts climb up and left thru a beautiful black patina on crisp edges. From here cross a wide crack and head straight up on large holds thru a ramp system to a thin face crux under an overhang. Above the overhang easy but run-out climbing leads up and right to a bolt on the right edge of the large alcove. From here climb up and slightly left past 2 more bolts to the anchor.


This climb begins 15' left of The Notorious B.E.G. It is a rope stretcher with a 60m. Please tie a knot in the end.


13 bolts to a two-bolt mussy hook anchor

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By rickziegler
Jul 10, 2011

Great addition to the Mustache Wall!

By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 19, 2011

Great route! Belayers watch out, top of climb is still cleaning up.

By Vlad S
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

I counted 10 bolts.

By Tony Sartin
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

That's a shame Vlad. You missed some great climbing at the top of this route. After you pull the crux roof section, climb up and right (a little run) to a bolt on the right edge of the large scooped feature. Then continue up and slightly left a few more bolts to an anchor at 32 meters. I'm pretty sure that you climbed up and left a few feet after the roof and clipped the obvious "Not The Wheat" anchor. I'll explain this in the route description to alleviate future confusion.

Side note: I've lowered off this route multiple times with a 60 meter rope and it always just makes it with rope stretch. Always tie a knot in the end of your rope.

By Vlad S
Sep 5, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Tony, you are completely right. I climbed left after the roof. Thanks! What's the scoop on "not the wheat"?

By Tony Sartin
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Not the Wheat is IMHO one of the finest routes on the wall. A Brian Ketron creation along with the help of Tai Devore and Trevor Hobbs if I'm not mistaken. It went up and instantly made the cover of Climbing magazine a few years back. Trevor being the cover boy of course. It has a strange, fat, under driven buttonhead bolt right before the anchor. Originally, I was told that it was 11d, but some people have since claimed 11c. I personally would give it solid 11d/ easy 12a myself. Excellent regardless.