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> AMO Wall
The Relish Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 78
votes
Routes in AMO Wall
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A Balancing Act S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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AWOL S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Beaten Zone, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ghille Suit S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Into the Mystic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Petra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Relish Route, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shortcut S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stranger Than Friction S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 236 ft (72 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Lawrence, Brian Jones, Andre Ike 2009 |
| Page Views: | 6,496 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | Jonny 5 on Dec 13, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This popular climb scales the wall in 3 pleasant pitches. It's a good multi-pitch climb for beginners, especially when combined with the last pitch of The Beaten Zone.
Pitch 1: 5.7, 8 bolts, 92 feet. Tricky move between bolt # 1 and 2 followed by easier climbing along a crack. Move up and left towards a stump and then climb the glassy slab above to a belay in a scoop. *They have added a bolt to create a station for those who wish to break this into two pitches to avoid rope drag. **A variation Muchel onto Ehrr 5.9 veers right at bolt #3, surmounts a cruxy slab then heads left back into The Relish Route.
Pitch 2: 5.6, 4 bolts, 72 feet. Follow bolts up and left, staying right of the dark streak. Belay on big ledge.
Pitch 3: 5.8, 7 bolts, 72 feet. Climb directly above the chains. Tricky mantel around a short steep wall completes the route. Either rappel or take Shortcut 5.4 to reach the hikeout.
Pitch 1: 5.7, 8 bolts, 92 feet. Tricky move between bolt # 1 and 2 followed by easier climbing along a crack. Move up and left towards a stump and then climb the glassy slab above to a belay in a scoop. *They have added a bolt to create a station for those who wish to break this into two pitches to avoid rope drag. **A variation Muchel onto Ehrr 5.9 veers right at bolt #3, surmounts a cruxy slab then heads left back into The Relish Route.
Pitch 2: 5.6, 4 bolts, 72 feet. Follow bolts up and left, staying right of the dark streak. Belay on big ledge.
Pitch 3: 5.8, 7 bolts, 72 feet. Climb directly above the chains. Tricky mantel around a short steep wall completes the route. Either rappel or take Shortcut 5.4 to reach the hikeout.
Photos
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