Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Winter Heat Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Could'nt be Schmooter T 
High Class Ho T 
Hole in the Pants T 
Judy's Route S 
Reign of Swain, The S 
Seasonal Controversies T 
Striptease T 
Winter Heat T 

The Reign of Swain 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Pier and Randy Marsh
Season: warmer weather
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: John Wilder on May 4, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


A thin and devious route that is probably a bit of a sandbag at 5.10d. Start left of the obvious chimney on the left side of the wall. There are two routes on this wall- this is the leftmost route. Follow the bolts up and left through a roof, clip a bolt and then make the run (20') to the anchors.


Leftmost route on the wall, open shut/clip in anchor.


7 bolts

Comments on The Reign of Swain Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 4, 2012

I thought this route was contrived and not much fun. The crux roof pull is the hardest (and least obvious) of three ways through the roof, but it is the only one that is safe.

If you're going to do this route, make sure you like credit card crimpers- thats the name of the game here.
By Mostafa
From: Alameda, CA
Dec 29, 2013

I totally agree with Wilder. The roof can be done a few ways the obvious line straight up felt really hard at 10c (book rating) even 10d.
By Crystal Lie
From: Ann Arbor | San Francisco
Jan 9, 2015

Pretty fun climb to me, because I do love the crimps. After the roof it's an easy jug fest to the anchors. We came here because Sunny and Steep across the way was incredibly crowded--doing this in the shade was way nicer than waiting around in the sun.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!