The Regular Route (Castle Rock Spire)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A2
Avg: 3.9 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | J Wilson, A Steck, P Bettler, W Siri (april 1950) |
Page Views: | 8,061 total · 45/month |
Shared By: | Schoney on Jul 28, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
The route originally went @ 5.8 A2 or so. The first free ascent went down in 1983 By Dick Leversee and Rob Raker (11b). From the notch there are variations to make the start harder.The route starts on the southeast side of the spire. The first couple of pitches go moderately. (we linked em) The third pitch is a tunnel through (behind the Dark Tower), and down to the crux pitch (beautiful corner/roof 5.11+ or so) More moderate climbing brings you to the topout offwidth...and awesome views!
The first ascent of each season might experience some dirt filled cracks and a little lichen. Due to a legendary rough approach which involves poison oak, snakes, ticks, and trailess bushwhacking, this area sees little traffic. Be prepared for an adventure. As of now, this route has seen less than 60 ascents. One guidebook says "the burliest approach in the Sierras"....another says "May the force be with you" while explaining the approach. It could be said that the approach is half the battle. Expect poison oak, snakes, and miles of not so obvious "trails".
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