The Red Pillar 5.9
| 680 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Parks, Griffin 1979 |
| Submitted By: | outdooreric on Jun 5, 2009 |
| |
The Red Pillar
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This route has a 5 star rating in the old guide, but it didn't quite live up to the hype. Some loose and crumbly rock exists in the crack and it ends poorly. The middle of the climb has nice hand jams while the pillar is a fun feature to climb. Overall a route of average quality.
The first crux comes from getting off the ground and a second crux comes from leaving a stance and gaining the hand crack just after the roof traverse. Higher up there is a small crack on the left wall that accepts nuts and smaller cams.
Location The climb follows the left side of the namesake detached reddish pillar on the east side of the crag. The pillar is accessed by climbing to the arch and traversing left under the roof.
Protection Standard rack with a couple 3-4" cams to protect the roof traverse under the arch.
Shawn seconding the start of the Red Pillar. Prob...
|
Starting up the route
| |
| Comments on The Red Pillar |
|
By T. Page
From: Truckee, CA
Nov 7, 2010
| Be careful of placing gear where the roof crack turns vertical. There was a #1 Camalot that got eaten that kept my #1 Link cam from the same fortune. The rope inevitably runs in the crack once you get above it, so a #3 under the roof and a #2 well above where the crack turns vertical seems like the best option.
Just my 2c. Have fun, it's a Great Climb! |
By JGHarrison
From: Reno, NV
Apr 28, 2012
| FYI, the perfect lieback pic up in the description is from the route called "perfect lieback" not the Red Pillar.
I had issues with getting the rope stuck on this, bring some webbing to leave on rap...If this thing ever gets retrobolted anchors...it seems to me that it would be better to put them on top of the pillar, instead of where they are at currently...just for rope drag issues. |
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Feb 2, 2013
rating: 5.9
| A good route with sustained movement but with questionable rock quality higher up on it. The anchor placement is absolutely puzzling to me. Very odd to have to make illogical abd sketchy moves w rope drag up to the anchor. Gear to 4". |
By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Mar 25, 2013
| The move off the pillar to the top is exciting. Anchor condition and placement leaves much to be desired. I had rope issues as well. Good overall. |
|
RSS Feed
more...
Slideshow
