The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade) 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | Dave Evans and Marge Floyd, 1985 |
| Submitted By: | Craig Clarence on Mar 9, 2003 |
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Mike standing on the chickenhead contemplating the...
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Description This route climbs the right side of the west face of the Obelisk (it's the dashed line in the picture). A nice fat bolt has taken the place of a nest of knifeblades which once protected the crux. The start is a bit bouldery, with an unprotected mantel onto a sloping ledge, but it's not too hard.
The route ends with typical grainy Josh slab, and I was happy I took the time to sling the chickenhead above the 2nd bolt.
Short route, fun moves - definitely worth doing.
Protection 2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8"). A sling for a chickenhead is very helpful as well.
Kalle Cook nears the top. Photo taken from across...
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photo by Sue Hopkins
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BETA PHOTO: west face
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| Comments on The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade) |
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 18, 2003
rating: 5.10b
| I agree; worth doing. Quite a nervy move stepping off the ledge and laying up past the crux, feels bigger than it is. Rappel off from bolts. |
By David Evans
May 15, 2003
| We did a Needles rappel on the FA. I sagged off one side while Margy rapped the other, then she tied off the rope and I rapped my side. |
By Ryan Avery
Apr 4, 2005
| I enjoyed this one. A way better lead for the expereince I think, but then I have only led it. Like mentioned above its a bit interesting stepping off the ledge into the crux. Definitely worth the hike.
Bring a couple quickdraws and a sling for the chicken head. Thats all you need so its a light and fast one. |
By Murf
Nov 7, 2005
| Graham - Crop out the Belayer and center a bit and I think you'd have a 3 * shot! |
By Bo Johnston
Oct 19, 2006
| The crux at the first bolt is stiff. I'm really glad there is a bolt there now. Making that move with a piton in that seam with serious fall potential would have put my tail between my legs... I wouldn't want to reverse the mantle move either! |
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