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Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade), The T 
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The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Evans and Marge Floyd, 1985
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: Craig Clarence on Mar 9, 2003

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Mike standing on the chickenhead contemplating the...


This route climbs the right side of the west face of the Obelisk (it's the dashed line in the picture). A nice fat bolt has taken the place of a nest of knifeblades which once protected the crux. The start is a bit bouldery, with an unprotected mantel onto a sloping ledge, but it's not too hard.

The route ends with typical grainy Josh slab, and I was happy I took the time to sling the chickenhead above the 2nd bolt.

Short route, fun moves - definitely worth doing.


2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8"). A sling for a chickenhead is very helpful as well.

Photos of The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade) Slideshow Add Photo
photo by Sue Hopkins
photo by Sue Hopkins
Kalle Cook nears the top.  Photo taken from across...
Kalle Cook nears the top. Photo taken from across...
west face
BETA PHOTO: west face

Comments on The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade) Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 18, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree; worth doing. Quite a nervy move stepping off the ledge and laying up past the crux, feels bigger than it is. Rappel off from bolts.
By David Evans
May 15, 2003

We did a Needles rappel on the FA. I sagged off one side while Margy rapped the other, then she tied off the rope and I rapped my side.
By Ryan Avery
Apr 4, 2005

I enjoyed this one. A way better lead for the expereince I think, but then I have only led it. Like mentioned above its a bit interesting stepping off the ledge into the crux. Definitely worth the hike.

Bring a couple quickdraws and a sling for the chicken head. Thats all you need so its a light and fast one.
By Murf
Nov 7, 2005

Graham - Crop out the Belayer and center a bit and I think you'd have a 3 * shot!
By Bo Johnston
Oct 19, 2006

The crux at the first bolt is stiff. I'm really glad there is a bolt there now. Making that move with a piton in that seam with serious fall potential would have put my tail between my legs... I wouldn't want to reverse the mantle move either!
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