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The Red Obelisk
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Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade), The T 
Red Obelisk Arete S 

The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Evans and Marge Floyd, 1985
Page Views: 632
Submitted By: Craig Clarence on Mar 9, 2003

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Mike standing on the chickenhead contemplating the...


This route climbs the right side of the west face of the Obelisk (it's the dashed line in the picture). A nice fat bolt has taken the place of a nest of knifeblades which once protected the crux. The start is a bit bouldery, with an unprotected mantel onto a sloping ledge, but it's not too hard.

The route ends with typical grainy Josh slab, and I was happy I took the time to sling the chickenhead above the 2nd bolt.

Short route, fun moves - definitely worth doing.


2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8"). A sling for a chickenhead is very helpful as well.

Photos of The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: photo by Sue Hopkins
photo by Sue Hopkins
Rock Climbing Photo: Kalle Cook nears the top.  Photo taken from across...
Kalle Cook nears the top. Photo taken from across...
Rock Climbing Photo: west face
BETA PHOTO: west face

Comments on The Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade) Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 18, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree; worth doing. Quite a nervy move stepping off the ledge and laying up past the crux, feels bigger than it is. Rappel off from bolts.
By David Evans
May 15, 2003

We did a Needles rappel on the FA. I sagged off one side while Margy rapped the other, then she tied off the rope and I rapped my side.
By Ryan Avery
Apr 4, 2005

I enjoyed this one. A way better lead for the expereince I think, but then I have only led it. Like mentioned above its a bit interesting stepping off the ledge into the crux. Definitely worth the hike.

Bring a couple quickdraws and a sling for the chicken head. Thats all you need so its a light and fast one.
By Murf
Nov 7, 2005

Graham - Crop out the Belayer and center a bit and I think you'd have a 3 * shot!
By Bo Johnston
Oct 19, 2006

The crux at the first bolt is stiff. I'm really glad there is a bolt there now. Making that move with a piton in that seam with serious fall potential would have put my tail between my legs... I wouldn't want to reverse the mantle move either!

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