The Red Headwall
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My favorite climb at Newfound. In the New England Guidebook it gets a WI5 rating (and it could be all of that) but there is often a weakness that forms up the center that I think lowers the difficulty a bit. A good climb for those breaking into the grade. The start is the crux, up the vertical curtain (40' or so) until the climbing eases to WI3. Stretch the rope to the trees, or better yet, break it into 2 pitches so you can see your second on the crux. Probably the least busy climb at Newfound due to the difficulty.
The obvious left hand flow of the three.
As many screws as you need. Stubbies may help in lean conditions.
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