Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Ament and Dalke, early 60's?
Page Views: 908 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 19, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The crux of this route is not breaking off the holds...
Reach the eye-bolt at the top of the West Bench, as accessed from any of the interior routes below it or from a scramble from the outer wall up to it. Set a belay here, and climb out and left for some distance passing a horizontal hand-crack, and proceeding inward past a fixed aluminum pin (with broken eyelets) and into a dark red, right-facing corner with trashy rock and a small ledge to stand on.
Climb up this corner until it ends, then work up and left onto a slab and onto the summit, to an eye-bolt belay.
If you are feeling frisky, from the top of the dihedral, you can continue directly upward through a bulge with a sloper, a few tiny edges and a small-downward pointing flake for holds. This felt like solid 5.10 and is certainly a dangerous fall potential- I did this on TR and my partner subsequently aborted a similar attempt, siting the noisy flake as his cause for that.

The route has some OK moves, but as a lead it's a bomb- too much stress over bad rock. Maybe 1 star as a TR.

Location Suggest change

This route is on the upper half of the inside East-facing side of the West Wall of the amphitheatre. It climbs the trashy red dihedral that starts level with the top of the notch on the West Bench.

Protection Suggest change

A standard light rack- most of it won't be any good anyway.

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