Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Ament and Dalke, early 60's? |
Page Views: | 908 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 19, 2006 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Details
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
The crux of this route is not breaking off the holds...
Reach the eye-bolt at the top of the West Bench, as accessed from any of the interior routes below it or from a scramble from the outer wall up to it. Set a belay here, and climb out and left for some distance passing a horizontal hand-crack, and proceeding inward past a fixed aluminum pin (with broken eyelets) and into a dark red, right-facing corner with trashy rock and a small ledge to stand on.
Climb up this corner until it ends, then work up and left onto a slab and onto the summit, to an eye-bolt belay.
If you are feeling frisky, from the top of the dihedral, you can continue directly upward through a bulge with a sloper, a few tiny edges and a small-downward pointing flake for holds. This felt like solid 5.10 and is certainly a dangerous fall potential- I did this on TR and my partner subsequently aborted a similar attempt, siting the noisy flake as his cause for that.
The route has some OK moves, but as a lead it's a bomb- too much stress over bad rock. Maybe 1 star as a TR.
Reach the eye-bolt at the top of the West Bench, as accessed from any of the interior routes below it or from a scramble from the outer wall up to it. Set a belay here, and climb out and left for some distance passing a horizontal hand-crack, and proceeding inward past a fixed aluminum pin (with broken eyelets) and into a dark red, right-facing corner with trashy rock and a small ledge to stand on.
Climb up this corner until it ends, then work up and left onto a slab and onto the summit, to an eye-bolt belay.
If you are feeling frisky, from the top of the dihedral, you can continue directly upward through a bulge with a sloper, a few tiny edges and a small-downward pointing flake for holds. This felt like solid 5.10 and is certainly a dangerous fall potential- I did this on TR and my partner subsequently aborted a similar attempt, siting the noisy flake as his cause for that.
The route has some OK moves, but as a lead it's a bomb- too much stress over bad rock. Maybe 1 star as a TR.
0 Comments