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The Red Corners

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Book of Condolences 

The Red Corners  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: grk10vq on Jul 10, 2013
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Jon Vickers staying tight to make the last clip be...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A cliff composed of a series of dihedrals, this is a unique area with some difficult routes. The Red Corners offer a slightly different style of climbing compared to the rest of the canyon, most lines here are highly technical and difficult in nature. The routes here tend to climb dead vertical faces and lack the standard pocket pulling thug-fests you'll find everywhere else.

Climbing here falls in the range of .11b to .13a and requires 14 or less draws. A 60 meter rope will get you up and down. I've hiked to farther areas in American Fork, but this one is a bit of a hoof, pack light if you can, plan on 25-35 minutes.

Exposed in nature, The Red Cliffs face south and get sun for a majority of the day. I've been here during all four seasons, but the spring and fall are easily the best. Plan to go early if its hot.

Getting There 

Park .35 miles up from the flagpole at a large pullout on the left. Follow the road up canyon until the stream crosses under the road. Head left onto a small trail and walk back down canyon about 500 feet until the trail crosses a talus field. See individual crags from here for directions.

An optional approach exists if trees are down for crossing the stream. This appraoch drops you off near the Beer Can Alley crag. Park one pullout prior to the .35 pullout, walk down the embankment and cross a tree to the opposite side, walk back down canyon to the talus slope and follow individual crag directions from here.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.1 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Red Corners:
Book of Condolences   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 65'   Book of Condolences
Browse More Classics in The Red Corners

Featured Route For The Red Corners
Photo by Jonathan Vickers

X 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Book of Condolences
Start with some easy scrambling (protected by a bolt) to a ledge from which you can clip the first two bolts. Work up into the dihedral and you'll quickly find the first crux. Pull a few more hard moves and you'll get a nice jug to gather yourself for the second crux on smaller crimps as you start to trend right to the final rest about halfway through the traverse. Get your heart rate down for the final exciting moves to the chains. As the guidebook puts it: "We're desperate, get used to it....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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