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The Red and the Black
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 0.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Slippery Peak & Slippery Peak Apron
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Leviathan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Plate Tectonics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Real Domestic Chickens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Red and the Black, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Stout-Hearted Men T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Jon Martinet, Jeff Gordon, Scott Gordon 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,225 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | john campbell on Apr 2, 2005 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Start in the middle of the red slabs, 80 yds left of a huge left-facing corner at a crack system.
P1 follows a crack system up to a belay at a bush. This pitch has the best gear of all 3 pitches, which is not saying much. There is crumbly loose rock. The belay is marked by a small bush and marginal small placements in a crack. 5.7 130 ft.
P2 continues above for 130 ft. This pitch is marked by loose/crumbly rock for pro and runout slabs. There is a huge detached flake that I had to stand to move up face. Belay 20 ft under a ceiling with some large hexes and #2 or #3 Camalot in a flake. 5-6 140 ft. Swain's guide did not give it an R but it is runout for 50 ft on slabs in one section.
P3 continues through roof section with another roof to follow 40 ft up, then 100 ft of slab climbing with a few marginal gear placements in crumbly rock. 5.5R 165 ft. Belay at a tree.
Descent: Traverse left and up to a slung tree above Real Domestic Chickens. Double-rope rappel to top anchor of Real Domestic Chickens. 2 more double-rope rappels to the ground.
P1 follows a crack system up to a belay at a bush. This pitch has the best gear of all 3 pitches, which is not saying much. There is crumbly loose rock. The belay is marked by a small bush and marginal small placements in a crack. 5.7 130 ft.
P2 continues above for 130 ft. This pitch is marked by loose/crumbly rock for pro and runout slabs. There is a huge detached flake that I had to stand to move up face. Belay 20 ft under a ceiling with some large hexes and #2 or #3 Camalot in a flake. 5-6 140 ft. Swain's guide did not give it an R but it is runout for 50 ft on slabs in one section.
P3 continues through roof section with another roof to follow 40 ft up, then 100 ft of slab climbing with a few marginal gear placements in crumbly rock. 5.5R 165 ft. Belay at a tree.
Descent: Traverse left and up to a slung tree above Real Domestic Chickens. Double-rope rappel to top anchor of Real Domestic Chickens. 2 more double-rope rappels to the ground.
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