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North End
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The Recommendation 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Reed and Jarrard, 1988
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: ChanVan on Jun 19, 2009
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Description 

This is one of the few "sport" climbs at Moore's, and a it's a good one at that. Good rock, great protection, and a short (read: 2 moves), powerful crux at the second bolt to pumpy but easier climbing above make it worth the effort if you're over scaring yourself shitless on the other North End routes.


Location 

The farthest left you can go at the North End- just to the left of Enduro Man and Filet.


Protection 

Quickdraws.

P.S. The last time I was there in January of 2009 I noticed that someone has placed a new, two-bolt anchor right above the fourth bolt- This is not the end of the route! The route continues on bomber fixed gear up through the bulge for another 20 feet to another anchor- whoever put the new anchor in has tarnished the route and obviously did not take the time to look up and see the little wires hanging out of the crack above- IMHO this anchor should be chopped.



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By Ben Sachs
Jun 20, 2009

If no one else chops it I will probably go back there eventually and take care of this mess. It's not even legal to add anchors like that, let alone botched ones. The route is short as is, let's not make it worse.

By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Aug 30, 2010

the end of the route is NOT up high-the original finish was to a gear anchor slightly below where the current low bolted anchor is.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Jul 8, 2013

Did this route again today after having not been on it in probably 10 years or more. I'm not 100% sure about the original anchor but there used to be 2 cold shuts about 30' higher than the current one (next to what I understood to be the original anchor - stopper/bashie and old pin). Supposedly the 4th bolt was also added after the FA, as there used to be a fixed wire in that horizontal just above. Resources from the TK guide and friends; have not personally asked either of the FA parties.

Either way, and for some reason, the new anchor bolts are insanely rusty - seriously. I don't know why, but they look like they've been sitting in a water streak for 20+ years... Otherwise, they look like they were placed well, just badly corroded.

It's certainly not my call, but It seems like the best place for an anchor would have been between the old one and the new one, in the bulge about 15' higher. Just my 2 cents worth.