|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Rich Farnham on Mar 22, 2005|
|Comments on The Reaper Wears Pink||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 23, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun. clean, mostly good rock.
The bottom actually would be better protected with nuts than with cams, mostly of good size. But for lack of having any there, I just cammed the lobes down to 100% and placed then like nuts and they were OK/good enough.
The crux comes at mid-height where the clean corner is 1.5" and lie-backing seems to be the technique of choice.
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Mar 30, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
|Super fun line. I protected the bottom face moves with a nuts, though I also placed an "umbrella-ed" #0.5 camelot in one slot and it was bomber. The layback portion goes from red aliens to #1 camelolts. There are at least 2 somewhat secure stemming rests in this section that help with gear placements (look for smears way out on the edge). The final hand crack is a bit 'tweener in sizes - big #2 camelots to tight #3 camelots.|
By Cody Ferguson
From: San Antonio, TX
Apr 11, 2010