Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bolt Cola 
Center Direct 
Cold Fusion 
Eagles Are People Too 
Erickson's Crack 
Get Shorty 
Lichen To Like 
October Surprise 
On Ballet 
Orange Corner 
Reamer, The 
Talon Contest 
Where Eagles Dare 

The Reamer 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
FA: Strappo & Simon Peck
Page Views: 374
Submitted By: steve dieckhoff on Jan 1, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure - opened July 30, 2013 MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route was reported in Neptune's book but not elsewhere I think.

    To the left of Lichen to Like there is a large spike. This is the Reamer. The route goes to a stance atop this spike and - after placing a stopper blindly to protect the wildly committing moves - up to and over the bulge above.

    I don't know whether this is an 's' or not because although the stopper is hard to place, and I am unsure of the size so I'm not guessing, it can be quite good. This section is quite reachy and thuggish.

    I believe he did this in the late 80s or early 90s.


    Wired stoppers & cams to 2", I think.

    Comments on The Reamer Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Richard Radcliffe
    From: Louisville, CO
    Sep 6, 2007

    I haven't been to Blob in quite a while, so I can't remember for sure, but this sounds suspiciously like a route I did with DH several years ago on Halloween day (maybe '99 or '00?). We had a belay (rat's nest of slings around a block) to the left of the spike and traversed above the spike to get to the blind stopper placement. Well, I never actually got on this pitch because my buddy fell about a hundred times before getting to the stopper placement (seems like he was falling onto a bolt). When he finally managed to make it over, he put in a very small nut and decided to weight it to see if it might hold. Turns out the answer was no. His static body weight alone dislodged a large block which came crashing down and almost killed DP who was at a bolted belay one pitch down (that's another story...). DH fell onto the Reamer spike. He didn't get horribly hurt, but was feeling bad enough to call it a day. After getting off, DP and I had a fine time on the sport routes in the right gully. DH was content to take a bunch of vitamin I and just watch...