The Reamer 5.11+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| FA: | Strappo & Simon Peck |
| Submitted By: | steve dieckhoff on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>>
The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route was reported in Neptune's book but not elsewhere I think.
To the left of Lichen to Like there is a large spike. This is the Reamer. The route goes to a stance atop this spike and - after placing a stopper blindly to protect the wildly committing moves - up to and over the bulge above.
I don't know whether this is an 's' or not because although the stopper is hard to place, and I am unsure of the size so I'm not guessing, it can be quite good. This section is quite reachy and thuggish.
I believe he did this in the late 80s or early 90s.
Protection Wired stoppers & cams to 2", I think.
By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Sep 6, 2007
| I haven't been to Blob in quite a while, so I can't remember for sure, but this sounds suspiciously like a route I did with DH several years ago on Halloween day (maybe '99 or '00?). We had a belay (rat's nest of slings around a block) to the left of the spike and traversed above the spike to get to the blind stopper placement. Well, I never actually got on this pitch because my buddy fell about a hundred times before getting to the stopper placement (seems like he was falling onto a bolt). When he finally managed to make it over, he put in a very small nut and decided to weight it to see if it might hold. Turns out the answer was no. His static body weight alone dislodged a large block which came crashing down and almost killed DP who was at a bolted belay one pitch down (that's another story...). DH fell onto the Reamer spike. He didn't get horribly hurt, but was feeling bad enough to call it a day. After getting off, DP and I had a fine time on the sport routes in the right gully. DH was content to take a bunch of vitamin I and just watch... |
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