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The Reamer 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Strappo & Simon Peck
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: steve dieckhoff on Jan 1, 2005

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route was reported in Neptune's book but not elsewhere I think.

To the left of Lichen to Like there is a large spike. This is the Reamer. The route goes to a stance atop this spike and - after placing a stopper blindly to protect the wildly committing moves - up to and over the bulge above.

I don't know whether this is an 's' or not because although the stopper is hard to place, and I am unsure of the size so I'm not guessing, it can be quite good. This section is quite reachy and thuggish.

I believe he did this in the late 80s or early 90s.

Protection 

Wired stoppers & cams to 2", I think.


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By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Sep 6, 2007

I haven't been to Blob in quite a while, so I can't remember for sure, but this sounds suspiciously like a route I did with DH several years ago on Halloween day (maybe '99 or '00?). We had a belay (rat's nest of slings around a block) to the left of the spike and traversed above the spike to get to the blind stopper placement. Well, I never actually got on this pitch because my buddy fell about a hundred times before getting to the stopper placement (seems like he was falling onto a bolt). When he finally managed to make it over, he put in a very small nut and decided to weight it to see if it might hold. Turns out the answer was no. His static body weight alone dislodged a large block which came crashing down and almost killed DP who was at a bolted belay one pitch down (that's another story...). DH fell onto the Reamer spike. He didn't get horribly hurt, but was feeling bad enough to call it a day. After getting off, DP and I had a fine time on the sport routes in the right gully. DH was content to take a bunch of vitamin I and just watch...