|The For Real Canyon
This route is hard face climbing. Nuff said. Just right of For Real.
|By Scott Bennett|
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Good climbing, but feels a bit contrived. You could easily climb into the 5.10 on the left down low, and higher (in the crux) the crack on the right pulls you off the bolt line as well.
Maybe some climbers are better at climbing with blinders on and simply enjoying the thin crimping up the middle, but I can't help but chase the good holds to the left or right.
Amazing tiny holds, though, and continuous movement make this worthwhile, even if you do drift left or right a bit.
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2010
I agree that the line is a little forced, since I was able to climb the arete left of the bolts (while still reaching them), take Is This For Real for a move and then turn the arete onto the face at the (fourth?) bolt and continue up the 1-pad crimps through the rest of the face, while my buddy forced himself on the face, into the right angling crack via some desperately thin feet and a crimp, then up to the same bolt to the shared ground.
That said, the climbing on this thing is freaking STELLAR! Really enjoyable, long reaches on continuous 1-pad/half pad crimps through a few difficult and pumpy spots. Killer!
Also, if you're not stoked about the start via the crap cave, you can take Is this For Real and turn the arete just above the #3 Camalot section of the crack where that little square foot hold is on the arete and still get in most of the excellent climbing on this route.
|By Ben Walburn|
Jan 14, 2011
I must have had my blinders on. I loved this climb for its technical, sustained, crimpy, and delicate nature. The beginning is a bit contrived and manky, but the rest of it is a blast! Follow the bolt line past desperately absent feet into the right-angling crack for the intended 5.12 line.
|By Dan G0D5H411|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
Techy climbing at its best.