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The Real Deal 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Nov 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

On the the left side Combustion Wall, this starts immediately left of Lockdown. From the 3rd bolt, it diagonals up and right, joining Lockdown for its upper half, while Fly Little Super Boy continues straight up. I guess it's kind of a linkup, but it isn't clear from Fred's guide which of these routes came first (presumably it came before Bob's recent contribution, Lockdown).

The climbing is good, with a crux coming around the 2nd bolt. The bolts on the upper half after it joins Lockdown are spaced pretty honestly compared to the routes to the right, The Smoking Pickle and Spontaneous Combustion. Probably on the easier side of 12a... and definitely easier than the 11d's over to the right (I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like, VHS or Beta).

Location 

This is on the Combustion Wall.

Protection 

8 bolts.


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By slim
Administrator
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Good route that is a bit easier (in some ways) than the surrounding 12a's but makes up for it in other ways.... Getting to the 3rd bolt is a little bit in your grill. Top part isn't hard but isn't super casual considering the bolt spacing and occasional friable rock.