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This "elusive" route as described by Jack Roberts in his guide is a great little route. The approach is relatively short --- only 45min. It can be done in two pitches with a 70m rope. P1 is WI3 and P2 is WI 4-5 ice. Great route....great fun. See the photos.
The Real Blue Creek route is down the drainage from the 2nd Old US Hwy 50 pullout (4.9 mi west from the US Hwy 50, CO Hwy 92 junction outside of Gunnison). Ski in below (west of) the Old US Hwy 50 road....just follow the drainage down.
Rap in from the end of the drainage and climb out using ice screws.
JP on P2.
Dustin and the climb before it fell down.
An alternative last pitch to the left.
Anchors for the last pitch.
Feb 25, 2010
The approach took us an hour and a half on skis, but there was a ton of new snow. Not any real significant avy danger on the approach which is a relief. We rapped off of a tree not knowing where the bolts were. On the top of the second pitch (crux) there is a 2 bolt belay on a ledge. We rapped off of that to the piton belay. The ice was aweful and it was warm so we decided to toprope the climb. It was "slush" - aneering at its best, just the worst ice. We both fell a couple of times due to the slush blowing out. Anyways, I got to the top of the third pitch and put my second on belay. Just afterwards I heard the most violent sound ever. The whole climb fell, just 5 minutes after I was just climbing it. Anyways the climb isn't in and probably won't form again this year.
Feb 16, 2011
To avoid any private land issues, it's possible to approach The Real Blue Creek by parking at mile marker 124, where the canyon narrows on US Hwy 50 (parking for the Curecanti Monster) Descend the steep hill and follow the creek towards Blue Mesa. It's about a 1.5 to 2 hours on snowshoes to get to the Real Blue Creek, and you pass some other little smears and stuff down there as well (perhaps the Yellow Fang?). The Real Blue Creek was looking fat as of yesterday!