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Lakeside in the Woods
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A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete S 
Burglar, The S 
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Freeloader T 
In the Doghouse S,TR 
Masses Are Asses, The T 
More Than Just A Pretty Face S 
Reacharound, The T 
Whiskers of the Observer S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Reacharound 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Colin Moorehead, Damien Kelly, 1997
Page Views: 632
Submitted By: Hans on Oct 20, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Nice no hands rest here! You can stem, or even si...

Description 

Follow a steep hand and fingers crack in a right facing corner to just below a chimney/roof. Make a traverse right along a crack then climb up into the chimney. Climb cracks on the wall that lead out of the chimney to the top of the wall. A fantastic route, and very atypical for Squamish.

Location 

At the north end (right side) of Lakeside in the Woods.

Protection 

The route takes a variety of gear from Metolius 2 (yellow) up to Black Diamond 4 or equivalent. Double up on mid-size (BD 0.5 to 1).


Photos of The Reacharound Slideshow Add Photo
Not as bad as it looks - lots of stemming and foot...
Not as bad as it looks - lots of stemming and foot...
Doesn't get much steeper at 5.9 in Squamish!
Doesn't get much steeper at 5.9 in Squamish!

Comments on The Reacharound Add Comment
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By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Realest 5.9 I've ever climbed.

I agree with Hans' gear beta, despite appearances it does protect well with a standard rack, though I took and placed a #5 and was glad to have it.

You know you're at the right place if you find yourself staring up at a gaping maw, muttering "there's no way that's 5.9."

For a fun variation, stick to the overhanging handcrack at the beginning.
By Alex Charmoz
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2014

this climb is phenomenal and reminds me of the gunks.
By MelissaThaw
From: Merced, CA
Jul 5, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think this route would be rated 5.6 or 5.7 if it was in the Sierra because there are so many rests on big ledges and tons of gear that's easy to place. The hand jams made it easier, too.
By Ed kelly
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fantastic climb. Has great moves, solid pro, and big rests. I think you could do this with almost any rack, there is such a variety of cracks and flakes you can place practically any piece from any stance. I placed everything from 0 mastercam to #4 c4, but needed neither. One note though, if you plan on top roping it might be a good idea to bring something to extend the anchor about 8 feet. The edge is quite sharp and rough on the rope if you want to lower over it. It is also not really feasible to clean your gear on rappel.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 5, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Totally fun. I hand traversed out the big rail and made it harder for myself (accidently). My partners simply worked up into the chimney for a move. Duh. That made way more sense.

I was happy to have a #4 but you didn't need it. Save a green camalot for above the rail.
By AndySkol
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 25, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

MelissaThaw's rating is obviously bogus, probably trolling. Once you get slightly off the deck there's nothing you can hit, and plenty of pro. Not PG13. Also, 5.6 or 7?

Anyway, I was also surprised I didn't need big cams on this. I placed a single 3 near the top, which I was glad to have but probably would have been fine without. Left the 4 in the pack, and I don't have a 5. I don't think I used doubles of anything, but I did use down to a .3 X4.

I didn't actually chimney, just walked up the ramp. Are other people using proper chimney technique?

Definitely easier than it looks but physical. If you like bigger hand jams and monkeying up with your upper body, this trad climb is for you. Ed's point about the edge below the anchors is good, it's probably not going to kill your rope but it's kinda ugly. I don't think toprope sessioning this is really feasible anyway though.
By MelissaThaw
From: Merced, CA
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

whoops, PG13 was a mistake - sorry! yes, lots of great pro! I still think it is not a 5.9, though!