|Lakeside in the Woods
Follow a steep hand and fingers crack in a right facing corner to just below a chimney/roof. Make a traverse right along a crack then climb up into the chimney. Climb cracks on the wall that lead out of the chimney to the top of the wall. A fantastic route, and very atypical for Squamish.
At the north end (right side) of Lakeside in the Woods.
The route takes a variety of gear from Metolius 2 (yellow) up to Black Diamond 4 or equivalent. Double up on mid-size (BD 0.5 to 1).
Not as bad as it looks - lots of stemming and foot...
Doesn't get much steeper at 5.9 in Squamish!
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Realest 5.9 I've ever climbed.
I agree with Hans' gear beta, despite appearances it does protect well with a standard rack, though I took and placed a #5 and was glad to have it.
You know you're at the right place if you find yourself staring up at a gaping maw, muttering "there's no way that's 5.9."
For a fun variation, stick to the overhanging handcrack at the beginning.
|By Alex Charmoz|
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2014
this climb is phenomenal and reminds me of the gunks.
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 5, 2014
I think this route would be rated 5.6 or 5.7 if it was in the Sierra because there are so many rests on big ledges and tons of gear that's easy to place. The hand jams made it easier, too.
|By Ed kelly|
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fantastic climb. Has great moves, solid pro, and big rests. I think you could do this with almost any rack, there is such a variety of cracks and flakes you can place practically any piece from any stance. I placed everything from 0 mastercam to #4 c4, but needed neither. One note though, if you plan on top roping it might be a good idea to bring something to extend the anchor about 8 feet. The edge is quite sharp and rough on the rope if you want to lower over it. It is also not really feasible to clean your gear on rappel.