Follow 4 bolts up a short, prickly arete to a large ledge (1st and 4th bolts are easily skippable). Now for the fun. Climb solid stone to a small roof. Rest and prepare for the crux. Pull around the overlap to the left and begin the business.
This route is just right of Gastoned Again on the Mammoth Wall in the Gym Area.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Oct 26, 2008 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
Brilliant climbing! This route to me seemed like 3 mini routes. The first being the coral reef arete (5.8) then to the wonderfully crimpy wall to the roof (10b/c), grab a no hands head jam rest or a great kneebar to shake out before the business. Over the roof comes the business culminating with a dynamic move to a good jug just below the anchors. Best route in the 11 range I have done at Shelf!
By jhump Mar 4, 2009 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
A fun route with great holds throughout. More than a few notches softer than its neighbor "In the morning you'll be mine." I found it to be easier than some 11b's at Shelf.
By Joshua1979 From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 22, 2011
What an incredible line. I will probably climb this every time I'm at The Gym. If winter, climb it early in the day while it's still in the sun.
Probably one of the best 11s in Shelf. I think the grade gets a 'soft' reputation, because the movement is fairly straightforward, you can see where you need to go (most of the time), you just have make the moves. The upper section definitely earns whatever letter of 5.11 you feel is most appropriate for your efforts.