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Frog Prince
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Blind Man's Bluff S 
Children of the Mojave S 
Dairy Queen S 
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Freddie Prince Jr S 
Frog Prince (AKA Babies) S 
Gollum S 
Raven, The S 
Red Queen S 
Through the Looking Glass S 
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Unknown FP 2 S 
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You Gotta Kiss a Lot of Frogs S 

The Raven 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brian Pletta (?), Lance Hadfield, 1996
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Nov 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Aaron Curtis on The Raven, photo by Katie Sauer

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Though originally rated .11c, this route feels more difficult than any other 5.11c route at Enchanted Tower. Probably initially went at the above grade but due to the soft friable rock at the beginning of the route, all the pockets seem to have been eroded to feel like two finger slopers. After pulling the moves on the crux at the bottom, the grade eases of considerably once you hit the varnish covered stone higher on the route. If your flamed nearing the top, you can hit the giant hole to the left and gain an excellent knee bar and almost a no hands rest! Fun move to make even if you are not flamed.

May wish to stick clip the second bolt.

Location 

This route is one route to the right of Freddy Frog Prince Jr, on the west side of the Frog Prince formation. Around the corner and left of Gollum.

Protection 

8 bolts to two bolt anchor.


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

FWIW, I always thought this was 11d. It was listed in some online guides (such as this one) at 11d before the big down-rate in Agee/Richard guide.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 7, 2007

Hey Mono, For what it's worth The Raven could be 5.11d. Also Guy was not in favor of the "big" down rating of routes at ET. I just felt that some were a little soft and down rated them. Most routes at the tower are not technically hard but take endurance. I would rather climb at an area where routes are not known as soft any way. Of course I could be wrong about the grade of the Raven. People can let us know with their input here. I don't think that a letter here or there really matters except to those trying to get up their first one. It is not like someone is going to die getting on one of these climbs. The Raven probably gets climbed a lot more now too. Thanks for your regular input here. Eric Rhicard
By Gary Parker
May 23, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I liked this route because it was a different style for the Tower. Slopey for sure.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 14, 2011

When I did this I believe there were about 2 or 3 hold on the entire route that didn't break in some way. Worst rock I have ever climbed on at the Tower, or anywhere for that matter.
By jbert
Jul 29, 2013

The route is a bit dirty as it doesn't get climbed a lot, but I think it is a stellar climb and one of my favorite 11's at the tower for sure. The technical start on slopey dishes offers a nice change from the majority of the climbs in the area, and the steep headwall provides decently long, sustained climbing to the anchors. I have not had any holds break, though the feet can skate a bit on grit through the lower section, but not enough to make me hate the climb. I would give it four stars if it was a bit cleaner, so go do it!
By foobarbecue
Aug 6, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Love how this gets steadily easier as you ascend. Built-in pump compensation. This climb has more in common with your average Box Canyon 11 than Tower 11s, and I think it would be 11a or b if it were at box. Nothing broke, felt clean.