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 ADVANCED
The Sorcerer
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Raven 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Vernon & Wall, FFA: Vaino Kodas & Larry Siebold
Page Views: 868
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

The Raven is a nice technical stemming corner. The first pitch is the business, and one can rap off it via some assorted fixed hardware (which may need to be supplemented) or continue on an easier pitch to the top.

There are three or four nice but obscure routes on the upper *west* face of the Sorcerer. The Raven is the furthest right of these and climbs a very obvious right-facing corner. Approach from the Sorcerer/Charlatan notch via downclimbing and a rappel. The climbs are obvious.

The Raven sews up pretty well with tiny gear, but the crack is very small and if you have big fingers it will feel much more like a stemming and smearing test-piece then a crack climb. Near the top things get particularly difficult, but some help lies just to the right. Almost anywhere else this would be a 3-4 star climb, but it's hard to justify that considering what else lies nearby.

Rap down or continue on easier climbing to the top.


Protection 

Mostly small stuff including wires & RPs.



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By Murf
Oct 19, 2006

I moved right about 1/2 up the corner, as it seemed in the guidebook. Have seen the moves at the top of the crack marked as .11a or .11b, seemed much easier. The meat of the matter is definately getting high enough to move right.

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 15, 2007

Although not multi-pitch like the classics on the opposite side of the Sorcerer, this pitch is as classic as any single pitch I've done on the formation. Awesome stemming with a cool crack switch, all on stellor rock with bomber albeit small pro. I give it 3.5 stars the only detraction being that it is a mere one pitch on a formation of multi-pitch classics.

By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The first pitch can easily be top-roped with a single 60m rope (3 bolts, and two chains at the anchor). I protected the route with a single rack from #00 Metolius to 0.5 Camalot, with a single set of regular and offset nuts. The gear looks sparse and tricky from below, but it appears at regular intervals and is solid. Often overlooked, this route is well worth climbing.