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Cactus Cliff
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The Raven 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson, 2000
Page Views: 2,637
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 7, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (135)
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1).

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Description 

Just left of the striking arete of Funkdemental, find a wide crack with three bolts. At the third bolt, pull left into a lieback crack. Place a long sling on the third bolt, and after clipping the fifth bolt, reach down and unclip the fourth to reduce rope drag. Launch into a few lieback moves then step right across a slab and gain a short crack in a shallow corner. Follow your nose past a headwall, and arrive at the anchors in short order. A long draw on the last bolt reduces rope drag for lowering off.

This is an excellent outing at the grade with fantastic movement and many no-hands rests.


Protection 

Eight bolts; bring two or three long draws.



Photos of The Raven Slideshow Add Photo
Route.
Route.
Finishing up The Raven.
Finishing up The Raven.
Start of first route.
Start of first route.
T Bob on The Raven.
T Bob on The Raven.
Getting ready to rap.
Getting ready to rap.
About to pull the crux on The Raven.
About to pull the crux on The Raven.
Comments on The Raven Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2013
By Kreighton Bieger
Apr 8, 2002

Does anyone know anything about the route that goes right from the third bolt of The Raven? It doesn't appear to be in the Cactus Cliff book.

By Darin Lang
Apr 8, 2002

I agree with the three star rating above - an excellent climb with a wide variety of moves. More unrefined folks will find some nice hand and fist jams in the initial flare before the traverse - but then you apparently miss out on one of the no-hands rests mentioned above. More sustained, and more difficult overall, than other 5.9+ climbs in the area. The Acme Hair-Split-O-Matic (TM) on my desk just spit out 5.10a, so I'll have to go with that.

By Bob Robertson
Apr 9, 2002

The route that takes off right of Raven is called Total Recall 5.10c. The bolts may not be were you want them, but they are were the rock is best.

By Darin Lang
Apr 9, 2002

Thanks for the info, Bob. Total Recall looks to have some fun arete climbing with great position. I'll have to give it a go the next time I'm down there.

By Brad Short
From: Saudia Aurora, CO
Nov 14, 2002

I must have missed the lower traverse left to the fourth bolt, as I went straight to the fifth bolt for my fourth clip. This probably made the route a little sporty, but it seemed to flow OK for me. I'll second Darin's Acme rating.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 17, 2003

The route between the Raven and Crimson Candy seems to be now getting traffic. It is a killer route which has anchors placed (oddly) high above the shelf and to the left of Raven's. It appears to be in the 5.8/5.9 ballpark.

Why is the Raven getting a 5.9+? It really is only a 5.7 that is strenuous for the grade. Either way, a super route that needs a long runner before heading left at the 2nd bolt.

By CLR
Nov 29, 2003

I bolted Raven solo. I rated Raven 5.9+ because: Many indoor climbers are addicted to this location, and climbers who have never climbed at location(s) like Turkey Rock could not likely flash a 5.8 trad route. Raven is RUN OUT in sections. If you place a few pieces of gear, Raven is easier than 5.9+.

By Larry Shaw
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Very fun route, worth doing.

By Jon Cannon
Sep 26, 2006

I counted nine bolts up to the anchors. Is the 4th bolt (right at the traverse; skipping this bolt would certainly reduce the rope drag) on a different route, maybe?

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2007

Great route and a must do. There were some tricky moves at the start. The rock is solid and all the holds are there.

By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Oct 16, 2007

No un-clipping silliness is required, as suggested in this description. Put a shoulder length runner on the 3rd and 4th bolts, and enjoy a rope drag free climb.

By Josh Nelson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 30, 2011

Anyone know the woman who bolted this route? I met her out here today. Seemed like a pretty incredible woman with some great stories. Set 240 some routes at Shelf alone.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 14, 2013

Hardware updated courtesy of Bob D'Antonio, Bruno Hache, and ASCA.