The Rattler 5.10c
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Good page? (4 likes)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Al Peery, Jeff Laina and Rondo Powell, February 1988 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: "The Rattler".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description This is the attractive crack that splits the left side of the wall and passes through a flared section midway up.
A must do route if in the area, this features steep and clean jamming with great gear. One of the recommended crack lines in the area along with Baby Rattler and Snake Book.
Protection pro to 4", anchors
By Erik
Dec 1, 2003
| Two bolt anchor was gone as of 11/29/03. There is a medium size boulder with ratty rope around it instead. |
By Richard Shore
Dec 19, 2011
| Sustained and quality crack climbing! 0.75 & 1 camalots are the ticket in the thin-hands, tight corner. No sling around the boulder as of 12/2011. Easy enough to walk around climber's right and rap off bolts atop Snake Book. |
By nnn
Jan 31, 2012
| yea Al & Jeff were with me on the route finding and area exploring
But I was the only one in the Group that flashed The Rattler(top rope)
Then Mike Paul and I came back and Paul(Tutes) flashed the route on site lead no beta! And I followed no falls
The Wall is Called (THE REPTILIAN ROOST)
NOT EMER CITY
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By Al Peery
Apr 5, 2012
| I agree with the 5.10c rating. I had given it a grade of 5.11a as I had recently lead Perpetual Motion and the Rattler seemed harder to me. My perfect jam is a #2 Camalot so it is off hand size for me.
On the FA I had to downclimb to back clean and leapfrog the old shafted 1.5 friend as I did not have enough when cleaning the crack on lead. It may not have been pretty, but at least it was no fall.
I never placed an anchor on top and was surprised when I came back a few years later and found bolts. It is a standard JT walkoff, but I wouldn't mind a bolted rap anchor on top for the next time I hike out to it.
Rondo also lead a crack just to the right that went at 5.9 which we called the Baby Rattler.
We called the butress the Reptilian Roost rather than Emrald City and got the route names from an encounter near the base of the crag! |
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