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 ADVANCED
The Headstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alienist S 
Chickenhead T 
Clouds of Jupiter T 
Epitaph, The S 
Haus Flake S 
Head Games T,S 
Head Trip T 
Io S 
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 
Noble Savage T 
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 
Rampart Rage, The T,S 
Razor Burn S 
Remote Control S 
Rock Nazi S 
Scratchy Face S 
Slab Variation S 
Topaz S 
V-Slaught, The S 

The Rampart Rage 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA:  Tod Anderson and Tom Hanson, 1997
Page Views: 1,990
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 19, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Rampart is the striking, left-facing dihedral in t...
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Description 

The climb begins on a good ledge 100 feet up the Headstone.

Approach via a direct trad line, or use the Remote Control bolt-protected slab (better). The Rage fires off the ledge through a very blank, shallow dihedral that culminates in tricky exit moves into a thin crack/seam.

First done free by Alan Nelson, this classic Anderson/Hanson line never drops below 5.12 until pulling into the crack system above the dihedral and small roof. This is a world class route that holds its own from the Valley to the Gunks and is well worth the battle.


Protection 

QD for the Rampart Rage pitch itself. The approach pitch can be either a trad line or sport according to your inclination.



Photos of The Rampart Rage Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the crux start from the belay. <br />Not too many holds on this thing.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the crux start from the belay.
Not t...
Comments on The Rampart Rage Add Comment
Show which comments
By SAL
From: broomdigiddy
Aug 3, 2008

What a stunning line.

By MJW
From: Boise, ID
Oct 11, 2008

Stunning...except for the junky, coldshut bolts.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jun 13, 2011

Junky coldshuts?

By Jack Ziegler
From: Golden, CO
Jul 14, 2014

The bolts are solid.