The Raging Boner 5.7+ R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Courtney Phillips, Dan Millis, a guy named Travis(?) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Not summer! |
| Submitted By: | The Great Dan Millis on Feb 6, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: Topo I drew in high school of Raging Boner.
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Description 15 years ago we summitted this thing after a failed stab at Mt. Hayden. We mostly just wanted to set up a Tyrol, ours was weak sauce but this would be a good place for it. The climbing is not hard but also not very well protected. We split it into 3 ridiculously short pitches in order to avoid a tricky traverse. The rock is sharp and very, very hot in the summer.
Location Find the separate spire southwest of the bridge on the south/east rim. Rap into the notch. 1st "pitch" is stemmy to a chimney. 2nd "pitch" was a walk around the ledge to avoid the lack of pro at top of "pitch" 1. 3rd "pitch" has some pockets for pro.
Protection 2-4" cams, tricams are great for pockets. We left nuts and slings at the top, no bolts.
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