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The Dungeon
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The Rack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tom Hanson, 1985.
Page Views: 870
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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Description 

Start on the left-facing flake and move straight up to some small horizontal breaks. It has good, powerful moves to start, then balance and crimping take over to the anchors. It is a nice route.


Protection 

4 bolts to double bolt anchor.



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By Darrin Stein
From: Laurens, SC
Dec 5, 2001

Nice route with good rests. Love the blind, positive holds near the top.

By Darin Lang
Apr 22, 2002

Another fun, well-protected route here. Despite appearances, the top section is pretty straightforward once you find the positive (yet blind) holds. The crux for me was getting from the first bolt to the juggy clipping hold near the second bolt.

The amount of broken glass and other trash in the Dungeon is ridiculous - belaying in this area reminded me of the "broken glass walker" that once appeared on the TV show "That's Incredible" (how many remember that?). Definitely don't go near this place barefoot, and I'd probably be uncomfortable even with just sandals. Cripes.

By Smithers
Apr 30, 2002

The Rack seemed a bit easier than 5.11 but was very fun regardless. I bet the jerks who break the glass in there aren't climbers and will proabably never read this but f#ck you guys (or girls) anyways. My favorite move is the cross over from the intermediate crimper (left) over right and up to the big pocket jug that is practically invisible until you get there. I tried this one left but found clipping was too awkward and failed the onsight. Second time through... I got it and the cross over was the ticket. Have fun and watch your toes!!

By Scott Rogers
From: Moab, UT
Mar 31, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Very Fun! Although the approach was a little disconcerting for a first-time dungeon climber, once I found this quiet area I was definitely impressed. The route is definitely a great warmup for the other routes in the area.