The Quota  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Jeff Popko and Chris Righter New Route:  Yes Season:  spring, summer, fall Submitted By:  jeffro popko on Aug 12, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route climbs the right side of the roof.

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2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas: North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete. South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The Quota is a shorter route on the south rim with an ultra stellar crux. The sun hits around noon, so it's best to get an early start so as to not bake through the hard pitches or the first two hanging belays (summer beta). If you like the idea of pulling a perfect, huge roof 200 feet off the deck, you should do this route.

P1: go up crack below the roof, come up under the bolt, clip and go left and up to the belay. 5.11-, 115 feet.

P2: Sick. Climb up past two bolts and re-enter the main crack. Go up and out the roof, clip the anti-gear snatcher, turn the roof, and go to the belay. Save a #2 for right after the roof turn. 5.12a, 85 feet.

P3: continue straight up obvious crack, mount a big block, and go up through easy OW to a big ol' belay ledge. 5.10, 120 feet.

P4: pop up through the chimney and climb through the corner on good rock up to the belay on the beach. 5.7, 120 feet.

P5: go up thin seems above the belay and then walk/climb up left to the bigger ledge guarded by some junk rock and a big chockstone (visible from belay). The chockstone doesn't seem totally solid, so be cautious. Go up to the peg band, clip the bolt, and climb the worm hole. At the top of worm hole, go left to find the big grassy ledge. Save a #1, 2, and 3 for the belay. 5.9, 210 feet.

P6: go up the crack and traverse left until you find the big, bushy ramp going up to the right. Walk up and climb out a little chimney and belay somewhere to the right of the topout. Done. 5.8/5th class, 100 feet.

Location 

Go down the Dark Star gully off of Cedar Point, there is a cairn to mark the proper gully. The gully goes down and turns to the right, and it's the big f#@kin' roof on the right. The topout is the Cedar Point lookout. This is easily scoped from the right side of Dragon Point.

Protection 

Doubles from 0.4-4 BD, 1 #5 cam optional, some small TCUs, and some medium nuts. A few quickdraws and some long slings. A 70m rope.

Photos of The Quota Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Jeff about to embark on the super sweet roof of "T...	Looking down at Jeff from anchors at the top of th...	BETA PHOTO: Another view of the splitter roof.
BETA PHOTO: Topo for The Quota.