The Question Air Box
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Jeff Wenger, Gavin Ferguson, 4/07 |
Page Views: | 1,584 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Jan 17, 2010 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…
ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
The beginning of this route probably warrants either a PG13 or an R depending on your head/risk tolerance. It's also worth noting that this would be a four star route if it protected perfectly. (so if your mental game is on, go get it)
Climb on top of the column right of California Weakender, do an exposed boulder problem to gain the base of sketchy-looking block, and work your way up to the top of the block. (Left works well) After this climb the beautiful thin hand crack stem-box and finish pulling an exciting bulge on flaring hand jams.
It's possible to put a yellow tcu behind an uninspiring, small, hollow flake during the middle of the boulder problem, but it would be a very strenuous position to place from and probably isn't worth the effort due to the somewhat dubious nature of the placement.
Climb on top of the column right of California Weakender, do an exposed boulder problem to gain the base of sketchy-looking block, and work your way up to the top of the block. (Left works well) After this climb the beautiful thin hand crack stem-box and finish pulling an exciting bulge on flaring hand jams.
It's possible to put a yellow tcu behind an uninspiring, small, hollow flake during the middle of the boulder problem, but it would be a very strenuous position to place from and probably isn't worth the effort due to the somewhat dubious nature of the placement.
Location
Two lines climber's left of Wondertwins is an enormous, very sketchy-looking block. The Question Air Block climbs up on top of the block and then up the stem-box above. See California Weekender photo.
Protection
An optional green C3 will keep your body from hitting the ground if you fall during the boulder problem and roll off of the ledge below. After that you can put a BD #3 and #4 behind the big flake as you worm up behind it on your way to the ledge. If you're not psyched about putting gear behind the flake, it's reasonable to place more thin gear (green and red C3's) in the seam to the left of the flake as you go up. After this, doubles of BD .3-2 with an optional extra green C3 for piece of mind through the roof will see you to chains. (on the right after the bulge)
Photos
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