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This is the easiest route on the River Wall slab, and provides quick access to the more difficult lines on the upper tiers. From behind the bridge abutment, climb vertical blasted rock past the first bolt. Slabs take you past two more clips to a overhang with a flexing piece of climbing history (clip it if you dare!) and a more modern replacement on the right. Anchors at the left end of the traverse ledge ("Riffle") can be used for top-roping or rappel. The ledge is somewhat sheltered from the weather by the overhang above. If you're heading for the upper tier routes, you can make it all the way from the ground to the anchors beneath "Viagra Falls" with a 50m rope.
Four bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.
|By Michael J Yarros|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 4, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Very nice route. At the roof, the holds are there where you need them.
|By Ryan Henry|
From: Golden, Colorado
Aug 8, 2006
The guide book calls this a 5.7, and I definitely agree with the online rating. Be very mindful as the 1st bolt might not protect against groundfall. I would not suggest top-roping this route because the rope drags pretty hard on two very sharp, (freshly exploded metamorphic) edges. It is a great route for new leaders looking for a challenge, and a great warm up for all the studs and studettes.
|By Tony T.|
From: Denver, CO
Aug 23, 2009
It's a fun route, but it's a tad run-out, and a bit harder than a 5.7.
It's a great route for shade in the summer. The sun starts to hit it again around 4pm.
Aug 3, 2011
There is a good-sized hold that feels a bit loose. It was about 2 feet up and 2 feet over from the first bolt. I would try not to crank too hard on it.