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Routes in Wind Tower - S Face
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Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Blackjack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Diffraction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X |
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Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X |
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Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
| FA: | C. Archer, K. Gotschall, 1993. |
| Page Views: | 1,159 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 16, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
I list this route as a 170' 5.10 rather than a 100' 5.9, since there is no way to approach it without climbing at least as hard as 5.10. It is best done from the lower crux of King's X (5.10b) as a single pitch anyway. A 60 or 70m rope would be best.
Start with P1 of King's X, traversing out left after the first crux (stand-up move at 1st fixed pin) and head out left towards the old P1 belay of King's X. Proceed further left into the stacked overhanging flakes that create a bulge/roof above. Watching for loose rock, select holds, and protection to pick your way through the bulge and up onto the more vertical face above. Eventually the angle licks back and you climb the rounded arete for nearly half a rope length to the ledge. Moving up and left on the ledge gets you a cleaner, more secure, and comfortable belay.
Start with P1 of King's X, traversing out left after the first crux (stand-up move at 1st fixed pin) and head out left towards the old P1 belay of King's X. Proceed further left into the stacked overhanging flakes that create a bulge/roof above. Watching for loose rock, select holds, and protection to pick your way through the bulge and up onto the more vertical face above. Eventually the angle licks back and you climb the rounded arete for nearly half a rope length to the ledge. Moving up and left on the ledge gets you a cleaner, more secure, and comfortable belay.
Protection
To do this route, certainly take a set of cams to 4" plus a lot of long slings. There are additional placements available to those who double up on cams 2-4" to avoid a few run-outs, but gear is still somewhat tricky and requires skill and judgment to place. This is NOT a beginner route. As a single pitch, drag was minimal for me with good sling work.
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