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 ADVANCED
Stone Mountain South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Speaks T,S 
Banana Breath T 
Between The Ways S 
Block Route T 
Blood On The Tracks T 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 
Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Dirty Crack T 
Dixie Crystals T,S 
Dream Waves T 
Electric Boobs T 
Entrance Crack T 
Face Value T,S 
Fantastic T,S 
Father Knows Best T 
Fleet Feet T 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 
Grand Funk Railroad T 
Great Arch, The T 
Great Brown Way T,S 
Great White Way T 
Mcgrady's route T 
Mercury's Lead T,S 
No Alternative T 
Pandora's Way T 
Peer Pressure T 
Pulpit, The T 
Purple Daze T,S 
Purring, The T 
Rainy Day Women T 
Rice Krispies T 
Scimitar S 
Sermon, The T 
Storm in a Teacup S 
Strawberry Preserves T,S 
Taken For Granite T 
Toilet Bowl T,S 
U Slot T 
Wahoo Start T 
White Way Direct T 
Yardarm T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Pulpit 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Will Fulton
Season: Fall/Winter/Spring (summer sizzler!)
Page Views: 6,455
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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shoeing up for p3?... one of the water streak cros...

Description 

After you've done the Tree Ledge classics like the Great Arch and No Alternative, you'll probably be ready to take a bigger bite out of Stone Mountain. The Pulpit is a great choice for a long, bottom-to-top moderate lead, with some interesting variety beyond straight-ahead friction. The climbing is exciting enough to get your blood pumping but never really desperate. Though the "Selected Climbs" guidebook comment on this being the mountain's best protected route isn't really accurate (the Arch takes that honor), the Pulpit is definitely well-protected by Stone Mountain standards.

P1 -- starting at an arching, left-facing corner, climb the corner to its end, then straight up on good friction to the left end of a sloping ledge. Clip a bolt above the ledge and traverse right to the end of the ledge (good pro along the way in a horizontal feature). Climb straight up to another bolt, then follow a steep but featured shallow groove (crux) to a third bolt. At the end of the groove, trend up and right past a fourth bolt to bolted anchors (hanging belay). 5.8, ~160'

P2 -- continue friction climbing straight up past two bolts, about 60'. At the second bolt, traverse left following the path of least resistance until you're below the obvious anchors; a fixed pin that once was a landmark here is gone. Easy climbing on scoops and actual holds leads you to the belay. This is probably the only pitch where there's no real opportunity for gear placements. 5.8, ~120'

P3 -- diagonal up and right on easy ground to an obvious shallow left-facing corner; small brass and/or a pink tricam may come in handy. Step up onto the corner and delicately traverse right for about 50' (no protection), crossing a shallow water groove that may or may not be dry. Finish at a spacious and comfortable alcove known as the Oasis -- a nice spot for a lunch break if no other climbers are coming up behind you. 5.8, ~150'

P4 -- from the Oasis, climb up and right to the parallel dikes that form Grand Funk Railroad; a small overlap before the dikes offers a possible gear placement. Follow the Grand Funk dikes up to that route's P4 belay anchors; clip the anchor for pro, then leave the dikes and continue more or less straight up to a large flake (the Pulpit). This pitch is a rope-stretcher. Belay at anchors above the flake. 5.8-, 180'

P5 -- continue up on easier terrain to the top; an overlap maybe halfway up the pitch can be used for pro to increase your comfort level. This is another rope-length pitch; if you're climbing on a 70m rope, you might make it to the No Alternative rap anchors over to the far left, but only if you forego placing pro. If your rope is a 60m, don't chance it; head straight up to a tree island and anchor in the trees, then make your way climber's left to the No Alternative anchors. 5.3, 180'

Location 

Starts at ground level just right of the Dirty Crack corner. Rap from the No Alternative rap anchors or walk off using the summit trail.

Protection 

A light rack of mostly smaller cams and passive gear. The first pitch protects well; after that, you may have opportunities for one or two placements at most on each pitch. All belays except P5 have bolted anchors.


Photos of The Pulpit Slideshow Add Photo
At the anchors on top of the first pitch.
At the anchors on top of the first pitch.
JP following on the last pitch. wondering and exposed. classic moderate!
JP following on the last pitch. wondering and expo...
Huong and Larry follow on P2 of the Pulpit.
Huong and Larry follow on P2 of the Pulpit.
This is the best protected pitch of what the guidebook calls the <em> best protected climb at Stone Mtn</em>. The cheese grater swing potential on this pitch is a bit heady if you're not used to leading on granite. Double ropes *really* minimized rope drag.
BETA PHOTO: This is the best protected pitch of what the guide...
After three pitches of climbing, the Oasis is a great spot for resting your feet and enjoying a snack.
After three pitches of climbing, the Oasis is a gr...
roger awash in a sea of granite on pitch two. happily!!
roger awash in a sea of granite on pitch two. happ...
Looking up the 1st pitch of The Pulpit.
Looking up the 1st pitch of The Pulpit.
Indy padding over the water and into the Oasis.
BETA PHOTO: Indy padding over the water and into the Oasis.

Comments on The Pulpit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Feb 17, 2008

I think I used a pink or red tricam for the first pitch
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Looking back on it, I'd have to say this is my favorite lead to date at Stone Mountain. It's nice and long and the climbing is always interesting. Highly recommended!
By Crisco Jackass
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 3, 2010

Beautiful route, especially love the Railroad intersection. P2 pin is technically still there, though it's little more than a rusty nail by now, serves as a waypoint if one were truly needed. P3 is a bit spicy when the groove is wet.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 20, 2011

Unique climb at Stone, but great line nonetheless. Unlike the surrounding slab lines, Pulpit climbs more like a standard vertical sport route and the amount of bolted protection only reinforces that notion. Well protected all the way up and offers some fantastic sequences! Take a ticket if your climbing here on busy weekend because this is another classic that gets a lot of traffic.

By Scott O
From: California
Jan 9, 2012

Well protected for stone, but you should be solid on easier (5.6ish) terrain, because Pitch 4 starts with a very long runout.
By Sam Stephens
Dec 29, 2013

Got off route and went up and right when we should have gone left on the second pitch. Wound up doing the sermon, which was pretty strung out to the Oasis, but really good too.