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Traverse up and left for about 25 ft toward the arete. Just before the arete, get some good gear in a horizontal. Continue up the arete for a few moves until you can find some good holds on the left side of the arete. Continue up the left side of the arete over a white slab. You can stop at the anchors of Stim O Stam, or continue up the left side of the arete to the top. At the point where you pass the anchors of Stim 0 Stam, there is very little gear and the finish is pretty much the same as Flyin' Hawaiian. This is a spectacular climb and would be much more popular if there was more gear. The gear is sufficient, but sometimes pretty far apart. If you stop at the anchors on Stim O Stam, it's much less scary and in my opinion you get the best part of the climb!
Start is the same as for Stim O Stam or Freaky Stylee. You can add a few fun moves by doing the bouldery start at the low overhang immediately below Stim O Stam.
Mostly small cams, all less than 2".
By Sam Stephens
Jan 26, 2010
Very cool route. Found some good nut placements in the weird lower section and just ran it out on easy ground. Crux is definitely down low and it's definitely worth topping this one out to the cliff top. Keep the rope tight for your second though.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 29, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Good friction moves on the slabby holds. Go all the way to the top on the left side or you miss out on some fun exposure. The gear is fine the whole way and you can sling a chicken-head type feature if you know how to do a simple girth hitch or a slip-knot. We rapped off the pine tree at the top (right on the edge) with a 60m rope and juuuust made it down.