||Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Gordon Wiltsie, Jay Jensen (FA, 1970's) -- Dale Bard, Bob Harrington (FFA crux pitch, 1980's) -- Peter Croft, Dayle Mazzarella (FFA entire route, 2000|
|Page Views: ||1,165|
|Submitted By: ||Bryan G on Apr 22, 2011|
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This is one of the most classic climbs on the eastside. Originally an aid route, and now a stellar free climb. 4 pitches of varied jam cracks on excellent rock and great position right on the spine of the buttress. The crux pitch is an intimidating lead, but the climb can be easily toproped because it is also the best rappel route from the summit.
Pitch 1 (5.10a): Climb the first pitch of West Face
Pitch 2 (5.9): Climb most of the second pitch of the West Face, but instead of traversing right around the arete, move left on a shelf to a bolted anchor below the large overhang/roof.
Pitch 3 (5.12b): Continuous climbing up the face and featured corner leads through the overhang. The gear here is thin and sparse. (5.11b R) This leads to a stance below a beautiful splitter. The crack is mostly fingers, and jogs left in the middle. Near the end it widens into off-fingers. Fight the pump all the way to the anchors.
Pitch 4 (5.8 or 5.10d): The Bard-Harrington Finish is the choice way to end the climb, but the original finish (from back when this was an aid route) is a 5.8 crack around to the left.
To descend, rappel the route with one 70m rope.
Pro to 3"
Bring extra thin stuff for the 5.11R, and save a handful of finger size cams for the splitter afterwards.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 4, 2011
The crack on p3 is amazing, although I only toproped it. It would be a scary lead, not just for the "r" factor in the 5.11 climbing getting up to the crack, but because the climbing involves pulling straight out on some pretty friable flakes that might break, no matter how solid a climber you are.
I'm wondering, has anyone done p3 without the 5.11R start, but by doing a lower angle, unprotected left traverse from the belay of "Shadow in the Rain," which is above the roof and to the right of the Prow crack? It looks like easier climbing.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 2, 2014
My friend Bernd Zeugswetter and I climbed this in June. Perfect rock climb—with the exception of the funky 11ish climbing before the upper 12b portion. Bernd onsighted the pitch (very impressively, I might add—he climbed up and down the 5.11 portion several times before committing) and I followed clean as I well. The lower portion isn't terribly hard, just weird and hard to protect since some of the flakes aren't totally solid. You CAN protect it, however. Just get creative.
The upper portion climbs like a 12b sport-climb. Charge it! Gear is solid, movement is sporty, and positioning is unparalleled.