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Start by making a couple bouldery moves to gain the long slab. Continue up the slab over the occasional loose block. As the route turns vertical at about the half way point, the climb really begins. At this point, climb up using some strange holds to reach the 1st overhang. When you are pulling the 1st overhang and clipping the bolt at the lip, a few of the key holds move, but they appear to be captured. Continue up and a bit left (optional gear here). Now the hard stuff begins. Make a long reach to a small hold, aiming for the giant protrusion. Rock up on to that and reach up into horizontal below the final overhang. Traverse a bit right and then straight up to the shuts. The climbing over the last 3 bolts is amazing and surely where the 5.12b rating comes from. This route would be very popular if it began at the upper overhanging prow section. 60M rope required.
The route begins on the white face about 15 feet to the left of Skull In Hole, 5.12a.
9 bolts?, shuts. A cam (yellow alien) may be placed in the long space between the 1st and 2nd bolt in the upper overhanging section. This prevents a long fall into the tree below.
By Sam Stephens
Jul 22, 2012
11 bolts on it as of today. Some long slings in the slab help drag.