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Middle Spire
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Prow, The S 
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Unnamed T 

The Prow 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,261
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 2, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Paul on the exposed face of the Prow (take from th...

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Description 

The Prow is a great route with plenty of exposure. The route climbs the left side of the large rectangular block on the upper North Side of Middle Spire. This is a wonderful second pitch to Over Easy (5.7) or any of the routes in this area. From the two anchors (at the bottom left side of the rectangular block) climb up a few feet and step out to the arete. The first bolt is hidden just around the corner. You definitely want to find this and clip it prior to committing yourself out on the arete. Fun and exposed face climbing using the left edge gains the summit 30' up. Safe and airy!

Protection 

Four bolts to two bolt anchors.


Photos of The Prow Slideshow Add Photo
awesome linkup with over easy
awesome linkup with over easy

Comments on The Prow Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 10, 2007

This sounds a lot like the route "St. Nicholas" put up by Mark Nicholas (?)...
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

First move onto arete is spooky but easy. Well protected, balancy moves with good rests between moves. For some reason it seemed easy for 5.10, no harder than some of the 5.7-5.9 climbs on Middle Spire!
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 10, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Agreed that The Prow is very easy 5.10. I would give it 5.10a tops. The initial clip and first move onto the arete is puzzling and may be what leads to the over grading. Once figured out, this is pretty moderate face climbing.