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The Prow finish 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,237
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 19, 2007

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Brian on the last few moves of The Prow Finish....

Description 

Though this is not its own route it is worthy to note as its my favorite pitch on this section of rock.... I often climb it after doing The Book of Solemnity (5.10a) or Recompense (5.9)....

Start with the down climb to the right as for Comeau's Finish (5.7) and make the traverse move to the right.... When you gain the crack rather than continuing across the slab head straight up the crack that thins and steepens until you are on an awesome 5.10a finger crack, and if you look down, you will notice that you are way up there, fun fun fun.... There is a root in a hold that folks grab, but there is also a good lock in the same spot.... Mantel the top and bow for the crowd.... You just did the second half of the last pitch of a very long, very hard route, keep it up and you may some day do the whole thing....

Location 

Downclimb to the right and up the crack in the slab....

Protection 

Rack of nuts and cams to #1....


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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 21, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I always thought this thing was Comeau's, no wonder I though it was sandbagged hard at 5.7. Damn I feel stupid.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 4, 2010

haha, ladd, the first time i did it i thought i was on comeau's too... after i did it i was like wow that felt hard so i did a little research and figured it out... so at least you arent the only one haha...
By chris magness
Oct 29, 2011

the step down is to a belay at the top of the Gypsy corner.