Though this is not its own route it is worthy to note as its my favorite pitch on this section of rock.... I often climb it after doing The Book of Solemnity (5.10a) or Recompense (5.9)....
Start with the down climb to the right as for Comeau's Finish (5.7) and make the traverse move to the right.... When you gain the crack rather than continuing across the slab head straight up the crack that thins and steepens until you are on an awesome 5.10a finger crack, and if you look down, you will notice that you are way up there, fun fun fun.... There is a root in a hold that folks grab, but there is also a good lock in the same spot.... Mantel the top and bow for the crowd.... You just did the second half of the last pitch of a very long, very hard route, keep it up and you may some day do the whole thing....
Downclimb to the right and up the crack in the slab....
Rack of nuts and cams to #1....
|By Ladd Raine|
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 21, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I always thought this thing was Comeau's, no wonder I though it was sandbagged hard at 5.7. Damn I feel stupid.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 4, 2010
haha, ladd, the first time i did it i thought i was on comeau's too... after i did it i was like wow that felt hard so i did a little research and figured it out... so at least you arent the only one haha...
|By chris magness|
Oct 29, 2011
the step down is to a belay at the top of the Gypsy corner.