|Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
This is the somewhat traversing line to the left of Eyeless in Gaza that makes use of the obvious sharp fin about midway up the wall. Although it doesn't see nearly the attention that Eyeless does, it's a really good route and a change of pace at Sundown, where relatively juggy climbs can be hard to come by.
Start up the same chimney as Eyeless, then traverse left, using the obvious shelf for your hands and some small feet. Pull an awkward mantel onto the shelf, then continue working up and left on good holds (clipping one of the anchors for the short route below and passing under the wedged, detached block - a little spooky - on the way) until the good holds run out. Move left into the short, dynamic crux using a powerful lock-off to cross and reach left into an undercling at the bottom of the fin, then slap into the fin to get established and jump for the top. (I've been told that originally the route went up on small edges to the right of the fin feature, but the bolts were moved after the better - and easier - sequence using the fin was found. Hence the discrepancy between this grade and the one in Webster's book). Anyway, once you're through it, shake out, and fight the pump on good holds to the anchor.
To the left of Eyeless. Same start up the chimney, but only the first bolt is shared.
Bolts and a pin. A #1 Camalot or something comparable can be useful at the top if you're not happy with the runout to the anchor. Long runners are helpful on the first several bolts to minimize rope drag, and followers should be sure to flip their rope over the fin before starting into the crux.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Campton, NH
Jun 7, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This is a good, if overlooked route. The start felt a bit sketchy, climbing past the knifeblade, though the climbing was pretty secure. The crux is fun, and the flake is nice and steep.