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j. The Great Zawn
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Man of Science S 
Problem, The S,TR 

The Problem 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: First lead: Dean Hernandez, 1993
Page Views: 677
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Sep 9, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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getting ready to pull the crux up to the left

Description 

The right-hand sport line on the Great Zawn.

Protection 

4 or 5 bolts.

Tops out to a single extra bolt two feet back from the lip. There are no anchors on this route specifically but there is a nice tree on the ledge that is more than adiquate backup for the single bolt.


Photos of The Problem Slideshow Add Photo
stopping to pose hahaha....the problem, 5.12a
stopping to pose hahaha....the problem, 5.12a

Comments on The Problem Add Comment
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By damonachey
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This route is 5 bolts and tops out to a single extra bolt two feet back from the lip. There are no anchors on this route specifically but there is a nice tree on the ledge that is more than adiquate backup for the single bolt.
By EFS
Jul 25, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

10a-b????? youre kidding me, right?

i took a year and a half of occasional attempts on weekends to finally get this climb back in like 94. i was just breaking into 12s, and ended up with 6 months off from one of the crimpy side pulls on that razor sharp crap that sliced a few deep lines in my finger pads when i peeled off just above the third bolt.....btw, im not sure f there are new bolts but there were only 4 when i did it, and i replaced the bolt and hanger on the second one back then too. definitely 12......
getting ready to pull the crux up to the left
getting ready to pull the crux up to the left
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 25, 2012

EFS, thanks for catching that typo! I must've hit the wrong number when I was copying it from Paul Nick's guide. Another reason I don't publish things I haven't climbed on MP any more.

Thanks for the pic and beta.
By EFS
Jul 26, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

not a prob........just getting back in to climbing again after a long hiatus......id like to get back on it again sometime.....when im back to pulling hard again, right now im a whimp......i snagged a ride on neanderthal about 5 years ago and flew up it........did it last week and i got spit out....after doing the climb about 50 times over the past 20 years, mostly on lead......i need some practice!!!

if you hit no problem, dont forget to get the second bolt clipped, then back down to the no hands knee jam in the big crack to shake out before going for it.......
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 28, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Very fun route, with a pretty cryptic crux down low. With the right beta, I thought the route felt like a solid 11c/d.